From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library
The Rocky Mountain Puzzle quilt block won't be a puzzle for long.
Not after you learn the secret!
Solve the puzzle with quick pieced HST and a bit of partial seam piecing. That's all there is to it.
Time to cut up and sew!
These abbreviations are used on this page:
SA are 1/4" and pressed towards the darker fabric unless noted otherwise.
Starch your quilt fabric before cutting if you like crisp fabric. Learn more about starching here.
The Rocky Mountain Puzzle design needs three fabrics: a background a medium and a dark.
For our sample block employs a medium fabric (purple) as the background.
We chose contrasting fabrics to differentiate between the two medium fabrics—a tone-on-tone solid vs. a polka dot. That's help the piecing stand out.
Cutting Chart for a~Traditional Piecing ~
|Patch||Fabric||Qty||Finished Block Size|
|1**||BAC||5||2⅞" x 2⅞"||3⅞" x 3⅞"||4⅞" x 4⅞"|
|2**||Dark||5||2⅞" x 2⅞"||3⅞" x 3⅞"||4⅞" x 4⅞"|
|3||Light||3||2½" x 2½"||3½" x 3½"||4½" x 4½"|
|4||Med||3||1½" x 3½"||2" x 5"||2½" x 6½"|
|Unfinished Block Size||8½"||12½"||16½"|
| **I prefer to cut my patches extra large for HST, stitch, and then trim them to size. If you prefer to do the same, add a bit extra to the measurements for Patches #1 and #2 above. |
There is a chart further down in these instructions where you need it for trimming them to size.
These are some of the supplies I use to prepare and cut my fabric.
We use the Quick Pieced method for making our HSTs.
Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the back of either all the #1 or #2 squares. Mark whichever one is easier to see the line on. For the sample block, it's easier to see the line on the purple #2 fabric.
Now I stitched this sample with my Sunday Sew-In gals (there's nothing like a day filled with quilting, good company, laughter and never-ending lattes!).
As luck would have it, my quarter inch foot was back at home.
And my Quick Quarter ruler was keeping it company!
Now there's no way I'm going to consistently eyeball a decent 1/4" away from the marked lines on those five pairs. (It's just not in my nature!)
But there's always more than one way to get things done in quilting!
So I simply marked the sewing lines instead—a quarter inch away from that center diagonal of the block.
Very easy to stitch with an open toe applique foot.
Below you can see a stitched #1/#2 (upper left), cut in half (upper right) and the two resulting HSTs with SA pressed to the dark.
Repeat the process for the remaining pairs of #1/#2 squares.
Now check the accuracy of your stitching using the chart below. Trim as needed.
|Trim HST to…|
How'd you do?
Because I prefer sewing with oversized patches, trimming is always a necessary step in my piecing.
With RST, stitch four pairs of HST together as shown below. Press the SA in the direction of the arrow.
Set two pairs aside until Step 3.
With the remaining two pairs, add a #3 square to one side and another HST to the other as shown below.
After stitching the units together, press SAs in the direction of the arrows so that the seams in Step 3 will nest.
To make the center we use the 'partial seams' or 'puzzle piecing' method where only part of the first seam is sewn.
Add the remaining three #4 patches as you normally would.
Then, and only then, stitch the second half of the first #4.
Arrange your patches.
Stitch half of the first #4 to the center #3. Start your sewing from the edge with the #3 and #4 patches aligned.
The pin (red arrow) shows where to stop stitching. I don't usually backstitch here since there's just a bit of stitching. Nothing to put any strain on the individual stitches.
If you feel better taking a backstitch or two...go ahead.
After sewing, you can see it's partially sewn. The arrow points to the end of the stitching line.
This partial seam is pressed flat first to set the seam, then out towards the #4.
Add the next #4 to the side containing the #3 and #4 patches.
Below the third #4 is added. (The red arrow points to the first partial seam.)
Add the final #4.
All that's left is to finish the second half of the first seam.
The pin to the right of my fingers shows where this final seam will end.
I do overlap my stitches here to secure the seam.
One final pressing and the center of the Rocky Mountain Puzzle looks like this.
Arrange the units into the design shown below.
With RST, stitch the units in the center row together. SA are pressed toward the center.
With RST, sew the rows together. Use pins as needed.
Check out 'Perfect Points for Impeccable Patchwork' for help with matching points.
Our Rocky Mountain Puzzle quilt block is complete.
And from the back so you can see how the SA all fit together.
Our Rocky Mountain Puzzle is a puzzle no more!
These are my go-to resources for quilt block ideas.
Can you tell?
It's in color.
It's got a ton of blocks.
What's not to love?
Next on my 'must-have' list is Barbara Brackman's Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns.
Unlike the Maggie Malone book, the blocks in this volume are hand-drawn and in black and white—no color—personally, I prefer colored drawings to work with.
This book is no longer in print. If you can come by a copy expect it to be wickedly expensive.
BlockBase is the computerized version of the Encyclopedia.
It can be used with Electric Quilt and is a Windows based program.
Finally there's The Quilter's Album of Patchwork Patterns by Jinny Beyer.
Lots of detail and in color, it is a beautiful volume. That said, I check it out of my local library on a regular basis instead of purchasing it—can you see the library sticker on it's spine. Yep, it's from the Plainfield Public Library.
Simply because I own the previous three references and find this the least user-friendly of the group.
And it does make a fabulous coffee table book!
Click any image or link for more info