Arrowhead Quilt Block Pattern

Step 3: Assemble the Arrowhead quilt  block

Cut one unit from the page you downloaded, cutting just outside the dotted line. Save the others for another project.

Use a dot (seriously, don't over do) of Elmer's Glue Stick (the one that goes on purple and dries clear) to hold #1 to the unprinted side of the pattern. Use the dashed placement lines to position it. (Fig. 1)

With right sides together, (RST) align the long bias edge of a #2 triangle with one of the short sides of #1 (Fig. 2).

It doesn't matter if you do the left or the right side first, though consistency makes it more efficient feeding the units through your sewing machine.

Stitch the seam starting about a 1/4" inch before the line begins and stopping about a 1/4" after the line ends (black arrows).

Press. Since these fabrics were starched before cutting, I am able to fingerpress this small triangle open (Fig. 3) saving a trip to the iron.

Add the second #2 triangle in the same manner, again matching the bias cut edges (Fig. 4).

To create the placement line for #3, line-up the edge of your ruler with the solid line (at the arrow) in the middle of the block.

Use your thumbnail to crease the pattern along the ruler's edge. Remove the ruler and fold the pattern back along the crease line.

At the arrow you can just see where the stitches were pulled out of the paper to get it to lay flat. That's exactly how it should be!

Align the ruler's 1/4" mark (at arrow) with the folded edge and cut off the excess fabric with your rotary cutter.

You've just created the placement line for your next patch. Match the long edge of #3 with the cut edge (see arrow below).

Stitch from the right side, again starting and stopping a 1/4" off the line.

Press.

Again, trim to establish the placement line for each short side of #3. Add both #4 triangles, pressing after each is stitched.

After the sewing is complete, your Arrowhead block looks like this.

The point at the top of each goose is nice and pointy!

But the block looks pretty scruffy at this point. I don't bother to trim the thread tails at the outside edges until the block is finished unless they are in my way.

To trim the block to size (3-1/2" for our example) match the 1/4" mark on your ruler with the solid black outline of the block and trim with your rotary cutter.

Then repeat for the remaining three sides.

All those stray threads are now gone with no extra effort!

Remove the paper and your finished Arrowhead quilt block looks like this.

Same name, different block...

It's common to have many different blocks use the same name and the Arrowhead quilt block is no different.

No relationship at all to the block in the tutorial!

Another completely different block. This one also goes by the names: Her Sparkling Jewels, The Gem Block, Idaho, Sparkling Jewel—much more appropriate names, don't you think!?

Though it might look like it from the picture, this pointy Arrowhead quilt block is composed of parallelograms, not diamond shapes (as in a LeMoyne Star).

There are several versions of this next variation. The one on the far right is actually called 'Arrowheads' in the plural.

This one looks the most like 'arrowheads'!

And our final block also goes by the plural, 'Arrowheads'.