Cross and Crown Quilt Block Tutorial:
5", 7½", 10" and 15" finished blocks

Welcome to our 👑 Cross and Crown 👑 quilt block tutorial! 😊 This elegant 2-color block is fantastic for Confident Beginners, thanks to paper piecing.

We've got free patterns 📄, a cutting chart 📊, and a color or fabric planning page 🎨 to simplify the process.

Paper piecing is easy as a classic 9-patch. Our instructions have step-by-step illustrations to ensure smooth quilting. 🧵

This tutorial is more than instructions—it's an invitation to enjoy creating something beautiful. 💖

Gather your fabrics and let's quilt! 🥰 🧵✂️🪡

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Download and print paper piecing pattern

If you haven't already, get your sewing machine ready for the technique.

With RST, align the long edge of a #GT2 with the edge of #GT1.

For this, and all the other paper pieced seams in this tutorial, stitch starting and ending a good 1/4" past the solid line between the two patches. Subsequent lines of  stitching secure the ends of these seams, just like in traditional piecing.

Press.

Repeat for #GT3, the triangle on the other side of #GT1.

After pressing, at your cutting mat, paper side up, fold the pattern back on itself on the solid line between GT2 and GT4.

NOTE: An Add-A-Quarter-Plus ruler is a helpful tool for this job if you have trouble creating the fold with your everyday rotary ruler. It also idiot proofs the trimming of the 1/4" seam...which I've been known to whack away. <hangs head in shame! 😳 >

Position the 1/4" mark on your ruler with the folded edge (pink arrow) and trim away the excess.

Repeat for the seam line between GT3 and GT5.

This is what the trimmed GT2 & GT3 look like. We've created the exact placement lines for the next two patches, GT4 and GT5.

There's no need to trim the edges at the center where those little dog ears are sticking out. We'll get them after adding the next two patches.

With RST, layer a short edge GT4 with the trimmed edge of GT2.

Sew and press.

If you're new to this patch shape, it can seem tricky to position correctly. If so, then simply position it as if it were 'open', like the blue/green leopard print GT5 below.

Once you're satisfied you've got it right, then close it and align the edges.

It's a lot faster to take a quick check than it is to rip out the seam of a mis-sewn patch.

Sew and press.

Back at the cutting mat, fold the pattern back on itself on the seam line between GT2-5 and GT6. The paper's going to tear a bit as you pull it away from the stitches. This is normal. 

If it tears too much, use some Scotch Brand Magic Tape® on the paper side to fix it.

Don't iron directly on the tape. It'll melt and yuck up your iron. 😱🙅‍♀️👎

Line up the 1/4" line on the ruler with the folded edge (sounds familiar, right?) and trim away the excess.

Position the long edge of GT6 with the fresh cut. 

This seam runs from edge to edge and can be chain pieced if you are making all four GT units at the same time.

Press.

Trim away the excess GT6 just like you did for the first side.

With RST, align the long edge of GT7 with the freshly trimmed one of GT6.

Sew the seam and press.

Now to turn this mass of piecing into the little beauty it's destined to be. 

At your cutting mat, position the 1/4" line of your ruler directly over one of the solid lines that surround the GT. Trim away the excess with your rotary cutter.

Turn the unit a quarter turn, position the 1/4" line again and trim. Repeat for all four sides of all four GTs.

Below is a Goose Tracks Variation in it's untrimmed state (left) and after trimming (right).

If you've diligently sewn on the line, those little points are exactly 1/4" away from the edge and the upper right and lower left corners are bisected exactly in half by the seam.

These units are a dream to stitch into our block.

Remove the paper pattern. It's easiest to start with the last patch sewn—the GT7—and work your way backwards through the numbering.

All our outside edges are on the straight of grain and are as stable as any traditionally pieced block.

With RST, stitch the units in each row together. The beauty of this design is that there's nothing to match mid-seam. Simply line up the edges of the units. Pin as needed to keep things aligned while sewing.

SA are pressed away from the GTs.

With RST, sew the rows together to complete your Cross and Crown quilt block.

These final two seams are pressed towards the center.

From the back, you can see that all I've got left to do is remove a bit of paper in the upper left where someone (who shall go unnamed…😳) glued with a bit too much gusto.

It happens. Nothing a quick pick with the thin edge of my seam ripper won't fix.

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