Always cut with the printed side of the template facing up, you'll be using the solid lines. The sides that meet at 90 degree angles are placed on the straight of grain. Your block will have stable edges that don't stretch.
With your leaf fabric pretty side up, lay the cone shaped T.1 template, printed side up on the fabric. I used bits of Scotch Brand Magic Tape® to hold it in place and minimize slippage. It pulls right off without leaving a residue.
Just don't iron it—it'll melt.
Remember to remove it from your leftover fabric after cutting.
Since this photo was originally taken, I've now added identification numbers (this template is T.1) and grainline arrows to the templates.
Lay the 1/4" line of your ruler on the solid black line and cut,
repeating for each side. You'll cut through the tape until there's
nothing left holding it in place.
Repeat for the T.2 and T.2r (the 'r' stands for 'reverse') templates. You can cut each patch out individually with the template printed side up on the right side of your fabric selection.
Or you can cut two patches at a time—just be sure to fold your fabric so either right-sides or wrong-sides are together. Then cut. You'll have two patches the mirror-image of each other...exactly what we need! Again, remember to cut with the 1/4" line of your ruler directly on top of the solid black line so that the patches are the right size.
Cutting through two layers of fabric, RST, to get mirror image patches. Again, edges that create a corner are placed on the straigt of grain. The arrow points to the 1/4" mark on the ruler.
Otherwise, remember it's always fabric, pretty side up. Template printing side up.
Draw two placement lines a 1/4" past the long edges of T.1 right on your pattern.
With a dab of Elmer's Glue Stick, adhere the wrong side of patch T.1 to the unprinted side of the pattern.
Drawing guidelines makes placement fast, easy and accurate.
With RST position a T.2 on the T.1. T.2 is over-sized so you do have some wiggle room.
Set your stitch length to 1.5mm and install an open toe applique presser foot (so it's easier to see where the needle hits the line).
Start and stop your stitching part the outside dashed edge of the block (black arrow below).
Repeat for T.2r. A surefire way to accurately position the T.2 patches is to have the 'valley' of their overlap (black arrow) approximately a 1/4" from the edge.
Press. Trim the unit to size.
Return to your every day presser foot and stitch length.
Lay out the remaining pieced #1/#2/#4 with this corner.
Stitch with RST, pressing afterwards with SAs to the corner unit.
Step 4: Assemble the Autumn Leaf quilt block
Lay out the two halves of the Autumn Leaf block.
With RST, stitch the two halves together. If you need to, pin. Since I chose to press some of my SAs open, pins came in handy.
After pressing, our pieced Autumn Leaf quilt block looks like this from the front...
Leaves need stems...
...and our Autumn Leaf quilt block is no different.
For my block, I will stitch the stem by hand using a stem stitch and embroidery floss after I've decided how to set my block.
Here's a quick tutorial on the stem stitch by my friend, Carol Leather.
So why wait to do the stem?
This block looks great in any direction, and I expect to draw the stems differently depending on the blocks' orientation in my quilt.