Our Autumn Leaf quilt block tutorial continues with piecing the point of our leaf, adding a stem and final block assembly.
On this page you'll find instructions to:
Leaf all your worries behind, let's get this block finished!
Lay the 1/4" line of your ruler on the solid black line and cut,
repeating for each side. You'll cut through the tape until there's
nothing left holding it in place.
Repeat for the T.2 and T.2r (the 'r' stands for 'reverse') templates. You can cut each patch out individually with the template printed side up on the right side of your fabric selection.
Or you can cut two patches at a time—just be sure to fold your fabric so either right-sides or wrong-sides are together. Then cut. You'll have two patches the mirror-image of each other...exactly what we need! Again, remember to cut with the 1/4" line of your ruler directly on top of the solid black line so that the patches are the right size.
Otherwise, remember it's always fabric, pretty side up. Template printing side up.
Draw two placement lines a 1/4" past the long edges of T.1 right on your pattern.
With a dab of Elmer's Glue Stick, adhere the wrong side of patch T.1 to the unprinted side of the pattern.
With RST position a T.2 on the T.1. T.2 is over-sized so you do have some wiggle room.
Set your stitch length to 1.5mm and install an open toe applique presser foot (so it's easier to see where the needle hits the line).
Start and stop your stitching part the outside dashed edge of the block (black arrow below).
Repeat for T.2r. A surefire way to accurately position the T.2 patches is to have the 'valley' of their overlap (black arrow) approximately a 1/4" from the edge.
Press. Trim the unit to size.
Return to your every day presser foot and stitch length.
Lay out the remaining pieced #1/#2/#4 with this corner.
Stitch with RST, pressing afterwards with SAs to the corner unit.
With RST, stitch the two halves together. If you need to, pin. Since I chose to press some of my SAs open, pins came in handy.
After pressing, our pieced Autumn Leaf quilt block looks like this from the front...
...and our Autumn Leaf quilt block is no different.
For my block, I will stitch the stem by hand using a stem stitch and embroidery floss after I've decided how to set my block.
Here's a quick tutorial on the stem stitch by my friend, Carol Leather.
So why wait to do the stem?
This block looks great in any direction, and I expect to draw the stems differently depending on the blocks' orientation in my quilt.
What about if you'd prefer to piece your stems?
I've got you covered! :D
Below is a cutting chart.
SUBSTITUTE THESE PATCHES for the #5 in the cutting chart on the first page.
The connector corners method to used to make the unit. While it does take a bit of extra fabric, but there's no funky patches to deal with. No extra trimming.
Besides, you get some nice sized bonus half square triangle out of the corners.
|CUTTING CHART for|
a Stem for the
Autumn Leaf Quilt Block
|Finished Block Size|
|5.1||Leaf||1||2-1/2” x 2-1/2”||4-1/2” x 4-1/2”||6-1/2” x 6-1/2”|
|5.2||Background||2||2-1/4” x 2-1/4”||4-1/4” x 4-1/4”||6-1/4” x 6-1/4”|
|Maximum unfinished size of bonus HST||1-1/2”||3-1/2”||5-1/2”|
|Maximum finished size of bonus HST||1”||3”||5”|
To make our step unit, draw a diagonal line with a pencil on the back of these two additional squares.
With RST, align the edges of #5.2 with the corner of #5.1. Stitch from end to end along the line.
Stitch again 1/2" away from your first stitches to create one bonus HST.
Cut with scissors between the lines of stitching. Press the #5 unit.
Repeat these steps for the opposite corner.
This is your 'new' #5 with a stitched stem and the two bonus HST.
Just substitute this pieced unit in for the solid #5 square in the instructions to make an Autumn Leaf quilt block with a pieced stem.