From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library
It doesn't get much easier than the Windmill quilt block.
A quartet of quick pieced half square triangles. Cut squares and rectangles.
That's all there is to it!
On this page you'll find instructions to make this beginner friendly design in three different sizes: 4", 6" and 8" finished.
Time to cut up and sew!
These abbreviations are used on this page:
SA are 1/4" and pressed towards the darker fabric unless noted otherwise.
Using starched quilt fabric makes fingerpressing the HSTs open much easier.
If you've never used starch before, click here for more information.
The hot pink print fabric (A) in the block is from Alison Glass' Sun Print line.
It's such a happy color.
Fun to work with!
Cutting Chart for a~Traditional Piecing ~
|Patch||Fabric||Qty||Finished Block Size|
|1**||BAC||2||1⅞" x 1⅞"||2⅜" x 2⅜"||2⅞" x 2⅞"|
|2**||A||2||1⅞" x 1⅞"||2⅜" x 2⅜"||2⅞" x 2⅞"|
|3||A||4||1½" x 1½"||2" x 2"||2½" x 2½"|
|4||BAC||4||1½" x 2½"||2" x 3½"||2½" x 4½"|
|Unfinished Block Size||4½"||6½"||8½"|
| **I prefer to cut my patches extra large for HSTs, stitch, and then trim them to size. If you prefer to do the same, add a bit extra to the measurements for Patches #1 and #2 above. |
There is a chart further down in these instructions where you need it for trimming them to size.
One of my favorite rulers for trimming HSTs down to size is the Bloc Loc Ruler. I can use the 4-1/2" size for trimming virtually all the HSTs I make.
We use the Quick Pieced method for making our HSTs.
Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the backside of each #1 square.
With RST layer each #1 with a #2. Stitch a 1/4" inch from both sides of the drawn line.
Press each pair flat to set the seam.
Cut in half along the drawn line to create four HSTs. Press these units open with the SA toward the darker A fabric.
Check your sewing accuracy using the chart below. Trim as needed.
|Trim HST to…|
With RST, sew a #3 to the #1 (background side) of a HST.
SA are pressed toward #3. Repeat for the three remaining HST.
With RST, sew a #4 to the #1/#2/#3 patch.
SA are pressed toward the #4 to avoid bulk. Repeat for the remaining patches.
Arrange the units into the Windmill design shown below.
Each quarter unit is rotated a quarter turn as you move clockwise around the block. The long edge of the #4 patch is on the outside edge of the block.
With RST sew the units in each row together. If you've followed the pressing directions, all the seams in the units nest. That makes matching the centers of the pinwheel quite easy.
Use pins to hold everything in place as you stitch.
Press the SA in the direction of the arrows shown below.
Again with RST, stitch the rows together.
It's helpful to use a pin through the match point in the center to ensure a good match.
The arrows point to the pin in the photo below.
[Click here for more on 'Pinning for Perfection'.]
After stitching pull a few of the stitches (do not cut them) away from the center so that you can twirl the seam allowance.
Then one final pressing.
Use my special pressing technique to get the flattest block you'll ever see. It's so-o-o-o-o simple. A real V8 head-thunk moment!
Here is the block from the backside. The twirled SA is circled. It forms a cute little pinwheel.
Our Windmill quilt block is now ready for a quilt.
If you use our tutorials to make your blocks and quilts, there are some easy ways to share your creations so other quilters (including me!) can enjoy the fruits of your labor:
I love seeing your work!
Our readers do, too!