Windmill Quilt Block

From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library

by Julie Baird

This post contains affiliate links for which I receive compensation.


It doesn't get much easier than the Windmill quilt block.

A quartet of quick pieced half square triangles. Cut squares and rectangles.

That's all there is to it!

On this page you'll find instructions to make this beginner friendly design in three different sizes: 4", 6" and 8" finished.

Time to cut up and sew!




General Instructions


These abbreviations are used on this page:

  • SA - seam allowance
  • RST - right sides together
  • HST - half square triangle
  • BAC - background fabric
If you need help printing this page, click here.

SA are 1/4" and pressed towards the darker fabric unless noted otherwise.

Using starched quilt fabric makes fingerpressing the HSTs open much easier.

If you've never used starch before, click here for more information.



Step 1: Cut patches for a Windmill block

Windmill patchwork designWindmill design

The hot pink print fabric (A) in the block is from Alison Glass' Sun Print line.

You can find more fabrics from Alison Glass here and here and here.

It's such a happy color.

Fun to work with!

Generations Quilt Patterns logo

Cutting Chart for a
Windmill Quilt Block

~Traditional Piecing ~

PatchFabricQtyFinished Block Size
4" 6" 8"
1** BAC 2 1⅞" x 1⅞" 2⅜" x 2⅜" 2⅞" x 2⅞"
2** A 2 1⅞" x 1⅞" 2⅜" x 2⅜" 2⅞" x 2⅞"
3 A 4 1½" x 1½" 2" x 2" 2½" x 2½"
4 BAC 4 1½" x 2½" 2" x 3½" 2½" x 4½"
Unfinished Block Size 4½" 6½" 8½"
Grid Size 1" 1½" 2"
**I prefer to cut my patches extra large for HSTs, stitch, and then trim them to size. If you prefer to do the same, add a bit extra to the measurements for Patches #1 and #2 above.

There is a chart further down in these instructions where you need it for trimming them to size.

One of my favorite rulers for trimming HSTs down to size is the Bloc Loc Ruler. I can use the 4-1/2" size for trimming virtually all the HSTs I make.



Step 2: Assemble the units

HSTs

Make 4

HST

We use the Quick Pieced method for making our HSTs.

If you plan to make many blocks, you may want to use another HST method like 8-at-a-time or triangle paper.

Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the backside of each #1 square.

With RST layer each #1 with a #2. Stitch a 1/4" inch from both sides of the drawn line.

Press each pair flat to set the seam.

Making HSTCut along drawn line (top), after pressing (bottom)

Cut in half along the drawn line to create four HSTs. Press these units open with the SA toward the darker A fabric.

Check your sewing accuracy using the chart below. Trim as needed.

HST Dimensions

Finished
Block Size
Trim HST to…
4" 1-1/2"
6" 2"
8" 2-1/2"
Trimmed HSTFour HST, trimmed and ready to use!


Corner units

Quarter Blocks

Make 4

With RST, sew a #3 to the #1 (background side) of a HST.

SA are pressed toward #3. Repeat for the three remaining HST.

With RST, sew a #4 to the #1/#2/#3 patch.


Adding the #4 patchMake 4

SA are pressed toward the #4 to avoid bulk. Repeat for the remaining patches.


Step 3: Assemble your Windmill block

Arrange the units into the Windmill design shown below.

Each quarter unit is rotated a quarter turn as you move clockwise around the block. The long edge of the #4 patch is on the outside edge of the block.

The four units form a pinwheel in the centerThe patches create a pinwheel in the center of the Windmill design


With RST sew the units in each row together. If you've followed the pressing directions, all the seams in the units nest. That makes matching the centers of the pinwheel quite easy. 

Use pins to hold everything in place as you stitch.

Press the SA in the direction of the arrows shown below.

Again with RST, stitch the rows together.

It's helpful to use a pin through the match point in the center to ensure a good match.

The arrows point to the pin in the photo below.

[Click here for more on 'Pinning for Perfection'.]

Pinning the rows togetherThe pin is hard to see, but it goes perpendicularly through the very tips of the background HST.

After stitching pull a few of the stitches (do not cut them) away from the center so that you can twirl the seam allowance.

Then one final pressing.

Use my special pressing technique to get the flattest block you'll ever see. It's so-o-o-o-o simple. A real V8 head-thunk moment!

Here is the block from the backside. The twirled SA is circled. It forms a cute little pinwheel.

Windmill quilt block, backside


Our Windmill quilt block is now ready for a quilt.


Windmill quilt block, front side


Share your work to inspire other Quilters!


If you use our tutorials to make your blocks and quilts, there are some easy ways to share your creations so other quilters (including me!) can enjoy the fruits of your labor:

Please share your creations on social media with the hashtag #GenerationsQuiltPatterns. Thank you!
  • On Instagram please tag your blocks and quilts with the hashtag #GenerationsQuiltPatterns.

  • Visit our Show n'Tell page on the website. Click here to share photos and tell your own story, just start typing at 'The name of your quilt is...'. If you'd prefer to submit more photos than the form allows, simply email them to me at julie@generations-quilt-patterns.com.

I love seeing your work!

Our readers do, too!


For even more blocks to make...


Click here to learn about my favorite quilt book resources that inspire my patchwork designs.

For you, are quilt block patterns like potato chips...

...you can't have just one?!!

Check the amazing resources I rely on for the majority of the quilt block designs you see on this website. 

To see if they're worthy of spot in YOUR quilting library, read about them HERE.



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