For 6" and 8" Finished Blocks
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With all of those pieces, pineapple quilt patterns used to be a good test of a quilter's piecing skills.
In the good ol' days before computers and copy machines, a quilter needed to make templates to get the job done.
Or buy special rulers.
Yuck and double yuck!
These days, we have the luxury of paperpiecing.
Suddenly, all those points don't look so daunting. If you can sew on a line, the blocks will be accurate. With a few blocks under your belt to develop a rhythm, you'll be cranking them out like nobody's business.
The only tradeoff for all that accuracy and efficiency is that the paper must be removed at the end.
Let's get started!
For paperpiecing, set your stitch length to 1.5 and install an open toe applique foot if you've got one.
If you find it difficult to remove the paper, change to a 90/14 needle.
Starching your quilt fabric ahead of time makes pressing your paperpiecing so much easier. It also saves time during construction because you're able to fingerpress seams open avoiding the back and forth between the iron and your sewing machine.
My preference is StaFlo liquid starch concentrate diluted 1:1 with water.
The drawback to starch is once your quilt is completed it should be washed to completely remove the starch.
If you choose not to starch your fabric, then every time you're instructed to 'Press', first do so with the patches right sides together (RST) and then press them open.
Check out our Best Pressing Technique for the most perfectly flat blocks you'll ever see. It's wickedly simple.
Click the images below to see the full collection. We share any commercial and/or free patterns that showcase them, too. (For inspiration, of course!)
You'll need the most current version of Adobe installed on your computer to download the pattern.
On the Adobe Print Menu page, under 'Page Size and Handling' set 'Custom Scale' to 100% before printing for accurate results. Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.
Click on the finished size below to download your paperpiecing patterns.
Once you've printed your pattern(s), rough cut just past the outside dotted line to get rid of the excess paper.
The patches that form an 'X' through the block are one value or color. The patches that form a '+' through it are another value or color.
In the stitched example below, I've used just two fabrics, but you could easily choose to make this 'scrappy'.
To create the bold graphic quality, there must be a clear distinction between the two colors or two values. If there is not, the result is 'mushy' looking and all your piecing goes to waste.
Avoid fabric choices that contain both values.
Our pineapple design is all about pointy points. You may want to avoid fabrics with both colors/or values in it so that you don't lose points unexpectedly.
Cutting Chart for a~Paper Piecing ~
|Patch||Round||Fabric||Qty||Finished Block Size||Sub Cut|
|Center||--||A||1||1-1/2” x 1-1/2”||2” x 2”||--|
|2-5||1||B||4||1” x 1-3/4”||1-1/4” x 2-1/8”||--|
|6-9||1||A||4||1” x 2-1/8”||1-1/4” x 2-5/8||--|
|10-13||2||B||4||1” x 2-1/8”||1-1/4” x 2-5/8”||--|
|14-17||2||A||4||1” x 2-5/8”||1-1/4” x 3-1/4”||--|
|18-21||3||B||4||1” x 2-5/8”||1-1/4” x 3-1/4”||--|
|22-25||3||A||4||1” x 3”||1-1/4” x 3-3/4”||--|
|26-29||4||B||4||1” x 3”||1-1/4” x 3-3/4”||--|
|30-33||4||A||4||1” x 3-1/2”||1-1/4” x 4-1/2”||--|
|34-37||5||B||4||1-1/4” x 3-1/2”||1-1/2” x 4-1/2”||--|
|38-41||5||A||2||3-1/2” x 3-1/2”||4-1/2” x 4-1/2”|
**To simplify the cutting for Patches #2-#33, cut two strips each from Fabric A and Fabric B. For the 6” version cut the strips 1” wide; for the 8” cut them 1-1/4” wide. Subcut these strips into the segments listed above.
Use a dab of Elmers Glue to adhere the wrong wide of the center square to the unprinted side of the pattern within the dashed placement lines.
With RST align the edge of #2 with the edge of the center. #2 is just a bit wider than the center patch.
From the printed side, stitch starting about a 1/4" before and ending a 1/4" after the solid line between the Center and #2. (See the red arrows below)
Getting at these first few patches can be awkward. If you need to pin, try using a Flower Head Pin.
It lays flat and can be pinned from the fabric side without distorting the pattern.
Repeat for #3 on the opposite side.
Press or fingerpress (if you used starch) the seams.
Now add #4 and #5, centering the each on the previously sewn patches.
In the photo below you can see the stitching lines from #2-#5.
To trim in order to establish the next placement line, we'll need to pull the paper away from the stitches as shown below.
Lay your ruler on the solid line between Center and #2, creasing the paper with your finger.
Fold the paper back on itself.
Now align the 1/4" mark of your ruler with the folded edge and trim with your rotary cutter. This creates a quarter inch seam allowance.
Repeat for the 3 remaining corners. Your have something like this...
Add #6 and #7 in the same manner, making sure to center the patches on the previously stitched unit. Here #6 is centered RST with the sewn unit.
Press or fingerpress.
Add #8 and #9, still centering the patch on the sewn units. It looks a little strange, but as long as it's centered it'll be just fine.
Press or fingerpress.
Trim as before to establish the next placement line.
You've now finished the first 'Round' of your Pineapple.
Up until this point, we've been adding patches to two opposite sides at a time and pressing in between pairs.
At some point in the remaining pairs, you'll be able to add all four strips of one color and size at the same time by pinning them in place. This is what your paper pineapple quilt pattern looks like when all four are pinned.
Sew the seams as always, starting and stopping before and after the solid line by about a 1/4". Lift your presser foot to move to the next seam and stitch again, repeating for all four patches. This totally speeds up the process.
Press and trim as before.
For this final round, the width of #34-#37 is 1/4" larger so that there is enough fabric to trim. Add these patches in the same way as #2-#33.
Align the bias edge of #38-#41 RST with the sewn units. To help line this up, the point of the patch kisses a corner of the first Center square like this...
After stitching all four corners, trim to size.
From the the pattern side, align the 1/4" mark of your ruler with the solid black outline and trim with your rotary cutter.
Repeat for the 3 remaining sides and remove the paper.
The finished Pineapple looks like this...
If you enjoyed making this design, consider designing your own Pineapple quilt.
Start with the following pages for inspiration:
You're sure to find the perfect blocks for your next quilt in our Free Quilt Block Patterns library.
Just click the image to the left and go there now.
Strapped for time?
Then Pin It without delay and come back when you have time to indulge your creativity!
For a list of ALL the quilt block patterns on this site, start here.
If you know the name of the block, you can shorten your search by using these alphabetical links:
Click here if you're looking for blocks with at least some paper piecing.
Click here if you're looking for the basic building blocks of quilting, i.e. Flying Geese, half square triangles, quarter square triangles, etc., along with several techniques to make each.
And finally, use these links to find blocks in these finished sizes:
For you, are quilt block designs like potato chips...
...you can't have just one?!!
Check the amazing resources I rely on for all the quilt block designs you see on this website.
To see if they're worthy of a spot in YOUR quilting library, CLICK HERE.