Perfect Points can be YOURS with Paper Piecing!
Skill Level: Confident Beginner
A Joyce's Mystery quilt block looks like it might be a prickly little thing to make.
But don't let all those points fool you!
Paperpiecing is the great equalizer. If you can sew on a line, you CAN make this block. And staying on the line is even easier once you slow your machine speed.
Let's take the mystery out of Joyce's block!
For paperpiecing, reduce your stitch length to 15-18 stitches to the inch. This makes more holes in the pattern making the paper easier to remove at the end.
More stitches also reduces the amount of stress on each individual stitch as the paper is torn away.
If you have one, install an open toe applique foot. It makes it so much easier to see the line as you're stitching.
Should you have a hard time removing the paper from your finished units, try using a larger, 90/14, needle. Personally, I regularly use a 80/12 without a problem.
What's important, though, is what works BEST for YOU!
All the seams in the units run from one outside edge to the other. Start and end all your seams a 1/4" from the beginning and ending of each solid stitching line.
And finally, sew slower. If you've got a speed control dial on your machine, dial it down. Staying on the line is crucial to a block that virtually puts itself together.
To download any of the Joyce's Mystery block patterns, you MUST HAVE ADOBE READER installed on your computer. Get it here if you don't already have it.
Next, open the downloaded file, and select the "Print" option.
To print blocks at the correct size, under 'Page Sizing and
Handling' in the Adobe print menu, set 'Custom Scale' to 100%. Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.
If you use something other than Adobe, you'll need to set 'Page Scaling' to 'None' to print at '100%'. Printing at 'Actual Size' tends to print blocks at weird sizes.
Once you've printed your pattern, use the information on the page to measure your block to confirm that it printed at the correct size. Most pages include a 1" square graphic to help you make this determination.
Choose the size you want and print from the links contained with the chart below.
|PRINT the Joyce's Mystery Paper Piecing Patterns|
copies to print
There should be a strong contrast between the A and B fabrics so that the points don't get lost.
For smaller blocks, choose fabrics that read as a solid—tone-on-tone, low contrast designs or actual solid fabrics.
The center of the 9" block is large enough (4-1/4" finished) for a 4" machine embroidery design as along as it looks good on-point.
All the measurements in the cutting chart are for squares, i.e. 2-5/8" means to cut a 2-5/8" x 2-5/8" square.
Remember to subcut units #2-#6.
Cutting Chart for a~ Paper Piecing ~
|Patch||Fabric||Qty||Finished Block Size||Sub|
|1||Background||1||2 5/8"||3 3/8"||4 3/4"||na|
|2, 3||Dark||2||2 7/8"||3 3/8"||4 3/8"|
|4||Dark||1||3 1/8"||3 5/8"||4 5/8"|
|5||Background||2||3 1/8"||3 5/8"||4 5/8"|
|6||Medium||4||2 1/8"||2 3/8"||2 7/8"|
|Unfinished Block Size||5 "||6 1/2"||9 1/2"||na|
|Grid Size||3/4"||1"||1 1/2"||na|
These are some of my favorite tools and supplies for preparing and cutting fabric.
Use a dot of Elmer's Washable glue stick to position the wrong side of #1 to the unmarked side of the pattern. The dashed placement guides make this quick, easy and accurate.
With right sides together (RST) align the long edge of a #2 with #1. The point of #2 should lineup directly with the corner of the #2 patch on the pattern. (arrow)
Add the second #2. Press both seams.
Repeat the process for the #3s. Before pressing, trim away the dog ears with a scissor to reduce bulk.
Trim the center to size. This is the finished center after removing the paper. As long as you stitched directly on the line, the points are a perfect 1/4" from the edges.
With a bit of Elmer's glue stick, position #4 on the unprinted side of the pattern using the dashed guidelines.
With RST align the short edge of a #5 with either the left or right side of #4.
To minimize any trimming, position the #5 patch so that it extends a 1/4" past the printed line between #5 and #6 (right arrow below).
Repeat for the second #5 and press.
Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" if it needs it.
With RST, align the long edge of #6 with the trimmed edge of #5.
Stitch and repeat for the other #6. Cut away any dog ears with a scissor to reduce bulk.
At this point. the untrimmed side units look like a hot mess!
Cut the side units down to size with your rotary cutter and ruler and using the outlines of the block as guides. (I use my rotating Olfa mat for this.)
The 1/4" mark on my ruler (arrow) is laid directly on top of the solid black outline around the unit. The excess is cut away. This is repeated for every side of every unit.
Remove the paper from the units after they are all stitched.
The paperpiecing is finished.
Install your favorite 1/4" foot and return the stitch length to what you normally use for piecing.
Arrange the patches (including the cut squares for the corners) into the Joyce's Mystery design.
Stitch the units in each row together, pressing the SA away from the side units to reduce bulk.
Stitch the rows together. I used pins to match the seams between the units, but didn't have to worry about the points in the valleys of the sides. Sewing directly on the lines makes for perfect quarter inch seams.
After the sewing is complete, the last step to complete this Joyce's Mystery quilt block is to press...using my favorite pressing technique!
This is the finished block.
If you use our tutorials to make your blocks and quilts, there are some easy ways to share your creations so other quilters (including me!) can enjoy the fruits of your labor:
I love seeing your work!
Our readers do, too!
Remembering a Christmas fabric you liked, but can't remember where?