From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library
The Propeller quilt block is a great place to start to expand your piecing skills.
With just half square triangles and strip-pieced pairs, you'll be ready for take off in no time.
Here we'll use the quick pieced method for making those half square triangles.
Should you choose to make a whole quilt from this block, links are provided to other half square triangle techniques.
These other options will help you streamline the construction when you have more than one block to make.
The Propeller is spinning, we're ready for take off. Let's begin.
Several common abbreviations are used in this tutorial:
Seams are all 1/4" and pressed toward the darker fabric unless otherwise noted.
I've used the Quick Quarter Ruler to mark the stitching lines on my HST. You can learn more about that tool here.
I've marked with my favorite, Bohin Mechanical Chalk Pencil. Learn more about that marking tool here.
Two fabrics are all you'll need for your Propeller block.
Here I've used two batiks.
One of the benefits of using a batik is that they take a press so well.
However, they can bleed.
I advise that you do a check for bleeding fabric before you begin if you're making a whole quilt from this block.
Good contrast between the colors and values is always a good thing when there's points in the design.
You always want your pointy piecing to show.
Cutting Chart for a~Traditional Piecing ~
|Patch||Fabric||Qty||Finished Block Size|
|1**||Light||2||2⅞" x 2⅞"||3⅞" x 3⅞"||4⅞" x 4⅞"|
|2**||Dark||2||2⅞" x 2⅞"||3⅞" x 3⅞"||4⅞" x 4⅞"|
|3||Light||1||1½" x 7"||2" x 9"||2½" x 11"|
|4||Dark||1||1½" x 7"||2" x 9"||2½" x 11"|
|5||Light||1||1½" x 1½"||2" x 2"||2½" x 2½"|
|Unfinished Block Size||5½"||8"||10½"|
| **I prefer to cut my patches extra large for HST, stitch, and then trim them to size. If you prefer to do the same, add a bit extra to the measurements for Patches #1 and #2 above (I added 3/8" to each dimension for the sample block). |
There is a chart further down in these instructions where you need it for trimming them to size.
If you have a perfectly reliable 1/4" seam allowance use the dimensions in the cutting charts for this patches.
My go-to thread for all my piecing is...
These are the cut patches for our Propeller sample.
Use a Quick Quarter ruler to mark two diagonal lines on the back of either the #1 or #2 square—whichever one it's easier to see the lines on. These lines are 1/4" away from the center diagonal.
Here, I've marked the #2 with my white chalk Bohin marker.
Stitch on the drawn lines. An open toe applique foot is perfect for this sewing because there's nothing blocking your view of the needle.
If you don't have this ruler, you can simply mark one diagonal line and then stitch a quarter inch from both sides of the line on both pairs of patches.
After stitching, press both pairs flat to set the seams.
Cut each pair in half between the stitching (below, left). You have four HSTs.
If you cut oversized patches like I did, you'll need to trim them down to size. (If you cut them exactly as instructed in the Cutting Chart, use this measurement to confirm they are the correct size. Trim away any dog ears.)
Find your 'Trim HST to...' size from the chart below.
|Trim HST to…|
This is what your units look like during the process.
For more on this method for making HST, click here.
For other methods to efficiently make lots of HST, click here.
With your favorite quarter inch foot installed (mine has a guide on the right side), with RST, stitch the #3 and #4 strips together along the long edge.
Press, first as sewn, and then with the SA to the dark.
Use the chart below to check that your strip set is the correct width.
|Width after stitching||SubCut Width|
Make any adjustments.
Straighten one short side of the stripset by aligning a line on your ruler (white arrow) with the seam line. Trim off a complete slice as shown below.
Again from the chart above, find the 'SubCut Width' that corresponds to your finished block's size.
Subcut your stripset into four equal patches.
Lay out your patches as shown below.
Be careful to get the HST swirling around the center in the same direction. Here the dark corners all point their way around clockwise.
With RST, sew units in each row together.
SA are pressed toward the two patch center unit in every row to create seams that will nest when matched.
Stitch the rows together, pinning if it helps you to match the seams.
These last two seams are pressed out from the center.
That way if you choose to make a quilt of nothing but Propeller quilt blocks, and they are set edge-to-edge, all the seams will nest.
Here the block is from the backside.
Using these same patches—HSTs and strip-pieced pairs, you can make several other blocks.
You be the designer!
Monkey Wrench, 5x5 grid
This looks almost identical to the Churn Dash above, doesn't it.
The difference is the two-patch is just one grid-unit wide. It's two for the Churn Dash.
Other variations include:
These are my go-to resources for quilt block ideas.
Can you tell?
It's in color.
It's got a ton of blocks.
What's not to love?
Next on my 'must-have' list is Barbara Brackman's Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns.
Unlike the Maggie Malone book, the blocks in this volume are hand-drawn and in black and white—no color—personally, I prefer colored drawings to work with.
This book is no longer in print. If you can come by a copy expect it to be wickedly expensive.
BlockBase is the computerized version of the Encyclopedia.
It can be used with Electric Quilt and is a Windows based program.
Finally there's The Quilter's Album of Patchwork Patterns by Jinny Beyer.
Lots of detail and in color, it is a beautiful volume. That said, I check it out of my local library on a regular basis instead of purchasing it—can you see the library sticker on it's spine. Yep, it's from the Plainfield Public Library.
Simply because I own the previous three references and find this the least user-friendly of the group.
It does make a fabulous coffee table book though.