Night Vision Quilt Block Instructions

From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library

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Skill Level: Beginner

The Night Vision quilt block is a fun little block to make using the partial seams method.

To make the design appear, you'll need three fabrics in three noticeably different values.

Night Vision quilt block instructions

You can construct the Flying Geese units it contains using either paper piecing or the Connector (or Folded) Corners technique.

We've included instructions for both on this page so you can do what works best for YOU!

Time to get to work!

All seam allowances (SA) are 1/4" unless otherwise noted.

When you are instructed to press, first press the pieced unit flat to set the seam. Then open the patch and press again.

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Step 1: Choose a size, a technique and cut your patches

Night Vision quilt block designNight Vision design

Sample Size: 6" finished / 6½" unfinished

Grid: 3x3

Attribution: Quilter's Newsletter

Design Type: Even 9-patch

Cutting instructions are provided by both paper piecing (blue chart) and connector corners (pink).

Choose your technique. If it's paper piecing, you can print the units directly from the chart. They are listed under the finished block sizes.

Print the paper piecing patterns you need

You'll need the most current version of Adobe installed on your computer to download the pattern.

On the Adobe Print Menu page, under 'Page Size and Handling' set 'Custom Scale' to 100% before printing for accurate results. Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.

After printing, use the 1" square graphic on the printed pages to confirm they are printed accurately.

In our example, the 'Geese' are dark, but that doesn't mean you can't change the color values around. To make sure that the points show, choose fabrics with enough contrast. 

Paper piecing patches are ample in size to make placement easy and accurate.

Unless otherwise noted, the dimensions are for squares.

For example, Patch #1 in the blue chart for a 6" block is cut 5-5/8" x 5-5/8" square from a medium value fabric, and then sub-cut twice on the diagonal.

Generations Quilt Patterns logo

Cutting Chart for a
Night Vision Quilt Block

~Paper Piecing ~

PatchFabricQtyFinished Block SizeSub Cut
3”4½" 6”
1Med13⅝”4⅝”5⅝”Symbol for a quarter square triangle
2Dark22⅜"2⅞"3⅜"Symbol for a half square triangle
3Light22⅜"2⅞”3⅜"Symbol for a half square triangle
4Dark11½" 2"2½" --
PRINT 4 Flying Geese units
(1 page)
1" x 2"1½" x 3"2" x 4"--
Unfinished Flying Geese measure...1½" x 2½"2” x 3½"2½" x 4½"--
Grid Size1”1½" 2”--
Unfinished Night Vision
block measures...
3½" 5”6½"--


Generations Quilt Patterns logo

Cutting Chart for a
Night Vision Quilt Block

~Connector Corners Technique ~

PatchFabricQtyFinished Block Size
3”4-1/2” 6”
1 Medium41½β€ x 2½β€2” x 3½β€2½β€ x 4½β€
2, 4Dark51½β€ x 1½"2” x 2"2½β€ x 2½"
3Light4 1½β€ x 1½"2” x 2"2½β€ x 2½"
Unfinished Flying Geese
measure...
1½" x 2½β€2” x 3½β€ 2½β€ x 4½β€
Grid Size1”1-1/2”2”
Unfinished Night Vision
block measures...
3½"5”6½"

90% Faster Than Rotary Cutters

Step 2: Assemble the Flying Geese units

Regardless of the method you chose, make 4 Flying Geese for the Night Vision quilt block.

Paperpiecing

We need to amend the pattern just a bit.

As you look at the printed side, change the '2' on the left to a 'L' for light and the '2' on the right to a 'D' for dark. It will look like this. (2's are used on both sides because it doesn't matter which one you add first.)

It might look backwards to you. Using two different 'sky' fabrics turns this into an asymmetrical block, so we need to essentially 'mirror image' the pattern. It does work out in the end. You'll see!

Then use a dab of Elmer's Glue Stick (the one that goes on purple and dries clearβ€”because it washes out with soap and water) and position #1 with its wrong side to the unprinted side, using the dashed placement lines makes it easy to get just right!

Change the '2' to 'light' on the left and 'dark' on the right

General Sewing Machine Setup for Paperpiecing

  • Reduce your stitch length to 16–20 stitches per inch (1.3-1.6 mm). This perforates the paper and stabilizes the seam when you remove the pattern. [Learn more about stitch length here.]
  • Reduce your machine's speed or just plain slow down. Sew only as fast as you can stay on the stitching lines.
  • Install an open toe appliquΓ© foot (sometimes called an 'embroidery' or 'satin stitch' foot) if you have one (it's easier to see where you're stitching with one installed). 
  • If your machine has a needle stop up, use it. The stitching goes faster when you don't have to lift the presser foot with every seam.
  • As you stitch each seam, start and stop a generous 1/4” before and after the solid stitching lines. ALWAYS. Future lines of stitching secure the ends.

After adding each patch, press the unit as it was sewn to set the seam and then open. The SA is automatically pressed towards the last patch added.

Before adding the next patch, take a look to make sure the one you just added covers the space plus seam allowance that it is supposed to.

Steam is optional and usually curls the pattern. 

If that bothers you, don't use steam. Sometimes I do. Sometimes I don't.

It truly depends on my mood.

Remember, as you follow this paper piecing tutorial, the printed and the fabric sides of this block are mirror-images of each other.

At last!

Let's sew!

With RST, align the long bias edge of a dark triangle with #1. From the printed side, stitch on the drawn line starting and ending past the outside edge of the block.

Press.

Patch 2 is attached

Add the light triangle #2 in the same manner. Repeat the process for the three remaining Geese.

The finished Flying Geese unit ready for trmming, only three more to make!

Trim the units to size by lining up the 1/4" mark on your ruler with the outside solid line of the unit and trim with your rotary cutter. Repeat for all sides of all units.

Remove the paper and they look like this...

Trim the units and then remove the paper

Did you notice the one in the lower right is upside down? No?!

I bet you DID notice that they are all pieced with the same fabric in the same position for each!

Return your sewing machine to your everyday settings.

We stitch the remainder of the block with traditional techniques.

Install your favorite quarter inch presser foot. Adjust the needle position if needed. Return to your normal piecing stitch length.

Step 3: Assemble the Night Vision quilt block

Lay out the units.

The points of the goose patches point out from the center.

Lay out the units, these aren't perfect rows because of the partial seams

You'll be stitching the first goose to the center square, but only partially sewing the seam...about half way (stop at the red arrow below).

I did take a couple of backstitches to prevent accidentally pulling out some of the stitches.

The first seam is a partial seam, sew it only about half way

Don't worry. We'll get to that loose part at the end.

Now turn the unit a quarter turn counter-clockwise and add another goose to the first two patches.

Add Flying Geese units to the righthand side and then rotate a 1/4 turn counterclockwise for the next one

Then press with the SA toward the center. And repeat...

Add the third Flying Geese unit

Continue adding and pressing until all four geese are stitched to the center square.

The last thing to stitch is that partial seam...

Use pins to secure the remainder of the SA. The pin on the left (arrow) is where the backstitches are.

Pin the last partial seam

Stitch the seam.

Press; SAs to the center.

This is the finished Night Vision quilt block!

The finished Night Vision quilt block

What about a different quilt block?

For a list of all the 220+ quilt block patterns on this site, start here.

If you know the name of the block, shorten your search by using these links:

A-D

E-M

N-Z

Click here if you're looking for blocks with at least some paper piecing.

Click here if you're looking for the basic building blocks of quilting, i.e., Flying Geese, half square triangles, quarter square triangles, etc., along with several techniques to make each.

And finally, use these links to find blocks in these finished sizes:


This article was printed from Generations-Quilt-Patterns.com

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