Looks can be deceiving!
While it looks tricky, the State Fair quilt block is made using basic quilting units. Those pointy-points are easy-peasy—whether you choose traditional or paper piecing to make them.
In this tutorial you have:
Time to cut up and sew!
Hate to paperpiece? Don't worry, I've got you covered. Click here to skip straight to instructions to make your State Fair quilt block with traditional methods.
These abbreviations are used in this State Fair quilt block tutorial:
1/4" SA are used throughout this tutorial.
For paper piecing I like to use heavily starched quilt fabric. It cuts, sews and presses more accurately in my experience.
Pressing instructions are highlighted in yellow to make them easy for you to spot.
When instructed to press, first press the patches in the closed position just as they came off your sewing machine. This sets the seam, melding the fibers of the threads into the fibers of the fabric.
Then press the SA to the dark unless otherwise noted.
You'll need the most current version of Adobe installed on your computer to download the pattern.
On the Adobe Print Menu page, under 'Page Size and Handling' set 'Custom Scale' to 100% before printing for accurate results. Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.
Choose your finished block size from the chart below and print the corresponding number of pages/copies.
|Square in a Square||Brave World||Flying Geese|
After printing, use the 1" square graphic on the printed page(s) to confirm the patterns are printed at the correct size.
Sample Block Size:
Design attributed to: Nancy Cabot
Please label all your patches. We use their numbers and identifiers throughout this tutorial.
Cutting Chart for a~ Paper PLUS Traditional Piecing ~
|Patch||Fabric||Qty||Finished Block Size||Sub|
|1||Bac||4||1¾'' x 1¾''||2¼'' x 2¼''||2¾'' x 2¾''||na|
|2, 3||Dark||4||2⅜'' x 2⅜''||2⅞'' x 2⅞''||3⅜'' x 3⅜''|
|4||Bac||2||3⅜'' x 3⅜''||4⅜'' x 4⅜''||5⅜'' x 5⅜''|
|5||Bac||5||1½'' x 2½''||2 '' x 3½''||2½'' x 4½''||na|
|Goose||Dark||1||3⅝'' x 3⅝''||4⅝'' x 4⅝''||5⅝'' x 5⅝''|
|Sky||Bac||4||2⅜'' x 2⅜''||2⅞'' x 2⅞''||3⅜'' x 3⅜''|
|Center||Dark||1||1⅞'' x 1⅞''||2⅝'' x 2⅝''||3⅜'' x 3⅜''||na|
| C.2, C.3, |
|Bac||2||2⅜'' x 2⅜''||2⅞'' x 2⅞''||3⅜'' x 3⅜''|
|Unfinished Block Size||6 1/2''||9 1/2''||12 1/2''||---|
|Grid Size||1''||1 1/2''||2''||---|
Cut out each pattern just a bit outside the dashed lines. There's no brownie points for trimming exactly on the line.
No need to waste any time being exact here.
Set up your sewing machine for paper piecing
If you're new to paper piecing, please read my article, "Essential Paper Piecing Skills for Beginning Quilters: Sewing Machine Setup and Fabric Preparation" for a more detailed description of how to setup your machine and why.
When should the paper be removed?
I prefer to remove mine after the units are given a final trim, before they are sewn together into a block. Because we use precut patches, the outside edges are all on straight of grain to minimize any stretching.
If you've starched your fabrics, that helps, too.
Position the first patch(es)
And finally, let's get the glueing done first so we can put our glue stick away.
Apply the tiniest dab of Elmer's Washable Glue Stick to adhere the Center, Goose and #1 patches to the unprinted side of their respective patterns.
Use the dashed guidelines around this first patch to position it.
Square in a Square
With RST, align the long edge of C.2 with the Center.
Stitch, starting a generous 1/4" before and ending a good 1/4" after the solid line between Center and C.2.
If the block size you're working on is big enough, you can add C.3 to the opposite side in the same manner before pressing.
On our 9" finished sample there is plenty of room to add C.3 before going to the ironing board.
If you look closely in the photo above, you can see I scooched the C.2 a couple of threads past the cut edge of the dark Center.
This serves two purposes:
Press the patches out from the Center.
Add C.4 and C.5 in the same manner.
Give your SiaS a good press.
To trim the unit to perfection, align the 1/4" line on your ruler with the solid outside line of the SiaS (not the dashed one). This cut ends up pretty much on the dashed line.
Trim. Rotate the unit a 1/4 turn and repeat. Continue until all four sides are trimmed.
This is the finished SiaS with points a perfect 1/4" away from the outside edge. I LOVE PAPER PIECING for just this reason!
Flying Geese Sides (FGSs)
With RST, line up the long edge of a Sky with the cut edge of the Goose.
It doesn't really matter which side you start with—left or right—unless you are making many blocks. Then be consistent with which side goes first to make your quilting time more efficient.
Stitch starting and ending past the outside dashed line.
Since the seam goes from one side to the other you can effectively chain piece these patches.
In fact, every seam you sew in a FGS can be chain pieced! :)
Repeat for the second Sky, pressing to complete the FG.
Trim the FG to size exactly how you trimmed the SiaS.
To complete our FGS, with RST, stitch a #5 rectangle to the bottom of each of your FGs.
Press with SA to the dark Goose patch. If the seam is a little lumpy, try my favorite method for pressing quilt blocks.
Repeat for all four pairs.
Brave World (BW) units
Paperpiecing is my absolute FAVORITE way to make these.
No matter how tired this quilter is, they always come out perfect just by sewing on a line.
With RST, align the short cut edge of #2 with #1 as shown below.
Stitch, starting and stopping past the outside dotted line.
With RST, align the short edge of #3 with #1 and stitch the seam as before.
Before adding #4, it's time to give our BW a trim.
At your cutting mat, align the edge of your ruler with the solid line between #2/#3 and #4.
Use your finger to make a crease on that line (blue arrow).
Fold the paper back on the crease and align the 1/4" line (blue arrow) on your ruler directly on top of the folded edge.
Trim away the excess with your rotary cutter.
You've just created the perfect 1/4" edge to align #4 with.
With RST, add #4.
Again, I scooched the edge of #4 a bit past the cut edges of #2/#3 (blue arrow below) to avoid any chance of the darker fabric shadowing through the lighter one.
Did you tear the paper on your pattern?
It's unavoidable with this type of design. You can see where it's torn on my sample below. It's just part of the process of making our State Fair quilt block.
If you think you've torn the paper a bit too much, you can always use Scotch Brand Magic Tape® to repair it. Just don't iron directly on the tape.
Because this last seam runs from outside corner to outside corner, you can chain piece when adding #4.
A nice little time saver, isn't it?!!!
Give your BW a good press. Then trim to size.
Here they are after trimming to perfection and removing the paper.
The choice is yours!