The Crow's Foot quilt block is quite dynamic!
Not because the piecing is difficult, but rather due to its use of color.
The colors in each quarter of the black are inverted from the ones right next to it.
Other than that, all there is to it are half square triangles (which we'll make 8 at a time to streamline the process) and a simple four patch.
Truly, it's that straight forward. Just as the crow flies.
1/4" seam allowances are used throughout.
Seams are pressed toward the darker fabric unless other wise noted.
Several common abbreviations are used in this Crow's Foot tutorial:
HSTs can get a bit lumpy. You may want to try out my favorite pressing technique.
It's simple. It's quick.
And you'll have the flattest quilt blocks with virtually no effort!
Choose two fabrics with nice contrast.
For this sample's red and black fabrics, shadowing of the black fabric through the top of the red wasn't a problem.
However, if you're using a white or other light-neutral, you may want to grade the seam allowances a bit to ensure the darker fabric doesn't show through the top—especially where the seams are 'twirled'.
With RST and your favorite quarter inch foot installed, stitch a #1 to a #2.
Repeat for the second pair.
Press each pair as stitched, then open and press again with the SA to the dark.
With RST, sew the pairs together alternating the colors.
I prefer to feed my patch into the machine with the SA on top pointing into the needle area (white arrow). There's less chance of it flipping over that way.
Pin if it helps you get a nice match where the seams meet.
To reduce the bulk, loosen the few stitches on the backside of the block in the SAs. (Don't cut off their thread tails, they are just a 1/4" long and won't be in the way. You need them for the stability of the block.)
Press again with the SA 'twirling' around the center in the same direction. Twice it goes to the light fabric—that's where you'll need to check if the darker fabric shadows through to the top.
Half Square Triangles (HST)
For blocks like our Crow's Foot with multiples of 8 HSTs, the 8-at-a-time method is my hands-down favorite. [For more detailed instructions on this technique click here.]
Draw a diagonal line through both pairs of corners on the back side of the two #6 squares.
With your favorite quarter inch foot installed, stitch a quarter inch away from both sides of both lines for both pairs of #5/#6 patches.
After stitching your patches look like this.
Give the patches a quick press to set the stitches.
Now from the chart below find your MidPoint Measurement for the finished block size you choose.
|Trim HSTs to...|
|6"||2⅛"||1½" x 1½"|
|9"||2⅝"||2" x 2"|
|12"||3⅛"||2½" x 2½"|
Align that ruler mark with the edge of the #5/#6 patch. Cut the unit in half from top to bottom.
For our 6" sample block, the measurement is 2⅛ (white arrow).
Now cut the #5/#6 in half using the same measurement from side to side.
If you can turn your mat, excellent. If you can walk around your cutting table, even better. If you must move your patches to turn them, just be careful lining them back up again before cutting in half again.
After this second cut, you now have four pairs of sewn #5/#6 squares that are equal to the Mid Point Measurement. (For the 6" sample, there were four 2-1/8" squares.)
Cut each in half between the two diagonal lines of stitching to create 8 half square triangle units.
Repeat for the second #5/#6 pair for a total of 16 HST.
Referring back to the chart just above, find the 'Trim HSTs to' dimension that corresponds to your finished block size and trim all 16.
For the 6" sample that number is 1½".
Top, Bottom and Side Units
First we need to join pairs of HST together.
Use the diagram to join them correctly. It's easy to mistakenly get them swapped around.
After stitching, press toward the dark #5 patch.
Next join two pairs as shown below. The one on the right below is flipped from its position above.
Put these aside for the sides of your four patch.
Join the remaining four pairs in the same manner. Press.
Add a #3 dark square to the #6 HST. Add a #4 light square to the #5 HST. (The colors are alternating all the way across this unit.
Arrange your patches into the design. The smaller outside corner squares are the same fabric as the corresponding corner of the inner four patch.
With RST, stitch the units in the center row together.
Press the center unit, SA toward the center to reduce bulk.
HSTs can be a bit lumpy in the seam allowance. This is the perfect time to try my secret pressing technique.
Click here to see how easy it is to make your seams lie wickedly flat!
Stitch the rows together, pinning as needed—there's lots of points to match.
I chose to press these final two seams in towards the center, too.
From the front, this is our completed Crow's Foot quilt block.
Isn't it amazing how simply playing with the color placement can have such a big impact?!!
Another block that plays with color in much the same way is the 'Massachusetts'.
Again, nothing but standard units. This time it's HSTs, quarter square triangles and two cut squares. Click here for the instructions to make it.
Just because the sample was set up as a two fabric block doesn't mean you can't make all your blocks totally scrappy.
Simply make sure that's there's plenty of contrast between your light and dark fabric selections.
It'll be stunning.
Maggie Malone's 5500 Quilt Block Designs is my all-time favorite!
Return to the top of the Crow's Foot quilt block tutorial.
Or Pin these instructions for later.