The Sun Never Sets on an Evening Star Quilt Block

From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library

by Julie Baird

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Skill Level: Beginner

Grid: 4x4

The Evening Star quilt block is one of many variations of a Sawtooth Star block—this time the star is light and the background is dark.

We'll use a technique called 'connector corners' to make the four Flying Geese units needed for this block.

Since the piecing goes so very quickly, this would be a good option for a last minute baby quilt.

If you're a machine embroiderer, the open, un-pieced center square in the 8" finished block is 4", making it the perfect size to showcase one of your many 4" machine embroidery collections.

That open space makes this block ideal for a signature quilt—for a retirement party, bridal shower or for a child going off to college in need of some reassurance.

Included on this page are instructions for 4", 6", 8", 10" and 12" blocks.

General Instructions

All seams are 1/4".

The following abbreviations are used:

SA - seam allowance(s)
RST - right sides together
FG - Flying Geese units

When it's time to press, first press the pieced unit flat to set the seam. Then open the patch, pressing from the front. Suggestions as to which way to press the seams are included below.

A directional print is used as the light fabric in this example. Instructions are given so that the fabric design flows in one direction when the block is finished.

Step 1: Cut patches for an Evening Star block

Evening Star design

While the diagram and our 8" sample block have a dark background, there's no reason that you can't swap the values.

As with any design with points, use fabrics with a good contrast (either in value or pattern) so that your points show from a distance.

I like to starch my quilt fabric before cutting. For this block, it'll make finger-pressing the FG so much easier to do.

			Cutting Chart for an Evening Star Quilt Block ~Traditional Piecing ~
Patch	Fabric	Qty	Finished Block Size
Patch	Fabric	Qty	4"	6"	8"	10"	12"
1	D	4	1½" x 2½"	2" x 3½"	2½" x 4½"	3" x 5½"	3½" x 6½"
2	L	8	1½" x 1½"	2" x 2"	2½" x 2½"	3" x 3"	3½" x 3½"
3	L	1	2½" 2½"	3½" x 3½"	4½" x 4½"	5½" x 5½"	6½" x 6½"
4	D	4	1½" x 1½"	2" x 2"	2½" x 2½"	3" x 3"	3½" x 3½"
Unfinished Block Size			4½"	6½"	8½"	10½"	12½"
Grid Size			1"	1½"	2"	2½"	3"

These are some of the supplies I use to prepare and cut my fabric.

These are the cut patches to make this block.

The patches needed to make an Evening Star quilt block

Step 2: Assemble the Evening Star units

Flying Geese Units

Make 4

Flying Geese unit

Mark the back of each of the eight #2 light squares with a diagonal line drawn from corner to corner.

Use a light touch, marking only as dark as you need to see the line.

Mark a diagonal line on the back of connector corners

In the top row the line is drawn from upper left to lower right. In
the bottom row the line is drawn the opposite direction from upper
right to lower left.

To keep the lines of our light directional fabric aligned in the finished block, notice that the line is drawn in one direction for half the squares and the opposite way for the other half.

If you are using a non-directional fabric, it makes no difference which direction the lines are drawn in.

Each Flying Geese will take one #1 and two #2 patches to make.

Only draw the lines as dark as YOU need to see them. These are
drawn darker than usual so that you can see them.

With RST, align one light #2 square with the end of a #1 dark rectangle. The drawn line bisects the corner.

Start your stitching on an anchor cloth to avoid having your machine 'chew' up the corner of the patches. I like to use an open toe applique foot for this sewing—it's easier to see the marking.

Stitch from one end of the drawn line to the other. You can chain stitch these units one after another.

The arrow points to the anchor cloth

Press flat to set the seam. Trim a quarter inch seam allowance into the side of the stitching line closest to the unsewn corner.

Press the light patch open and towards the corner.

Repeat for the 3 remaining rectangles. (Remember that if you're using a directional print to alternate the position of the connector corners as you stitch.)

With RST, stitch the second connector corner, #2, to the other end of the rectangle.

The drawn line bisects the corner on the same long side as the previous connector corner does. Again, you can chain stitch these units one after another.