Harmony Square Quilt Block
From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library
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Be at peace with your inner quilter while stitching up the Harmony Square quilt block.
Paperpiecing and traditional piecing techniques are both offered. Choose the method that work best for you.
In this tutorial you'll find:
- A cutting chart in four sizes and a place to download the chart and block design for both traditional and paperpiecing
- Step-by-step illustrated instructions for methods—choose your favorite!
- A Harmony Square coloring page to print
- No time to quilt? Pin this tutorial for later.
It's time to cut up and sew!
General Instructions
Several abbreviations are used on this page. They are:
- SA - seam allowance
- RST - right sides together
- HST - half square triangles
1/4" SA are used through this tutorial.
When instructed to press, first press the patches in the closed position just as they came off your sewing machine. This sets the seam, melding the fibers of the threads into the fibers of the fabric.
In paperpiecing, SA are always pressed towards the last added patch.
Pressing instructions are highlighted in yellow throughout this tutorial.
For instructions to print this whole tutorial page, click here.
Download and print paperpiecing units
If you prefer traditional piecing methods, omit this printing and skip to Step 1. Use the green cutting chart. Follow the traditional piecing instructions in Step 2 for the corner units.
For all you paperpiecers, follow the instructions below to download and print the patterns used to complete this block.
You'll need the most current version of Adobe installed on your computer to download the pattern.
On the Adobe Print Menu page, under 'Page Size and Handling' set 'Custom Scale' to 100% before printing for accurate results. Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.
Choose your Finished Block Size from the chart below and print the corresponding number of pages for a total of four units.
Print the Harmony Square Units | |
|---|---|
| Click on the Finished Block Size | Print this many copies for each block |
| 5" | 1 |
| 7-1/2" | 1 |
| 10" | 2 |
| 12-1/2" | 4 |
After printing, use the 1" square graphic on the printed page(s) the patterns printed correctly.
My favorite paperpiecing papers
Both are light weight and easy to tear away.
Click here for other options if you'd prefer something different.
Step 1: Cutting your Harmony Square quilt block
Harmony Square designSample Block Size:
- 10" finished
- 10-1/2" unfinished
Grid: 10x10, uneven 9-patch construction
A light, a medium and a dark fabric are needed to complete this patchwork design.
Please label all your patches. We refer to their numbers throughout this tutorial.
To print a copy of just the block design above and cutting charts below to use at your cutting table, click here.
Includes paperpiecing
 | Cutting Chart for a~Paperpiecing PLUS Traditional Piecing ~ | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Patch | Fabric | Qty | Finished Block Size | Sub Cut | |||
| 5" | 7 1/2" | 10" | 12 1/2" | ||||
| 1 | Dark | 4 | 1¼" x 1¼" | 1½" x 1½" | 1¾" x 1¾" | 2" x 2" | --- |
| 2,3 | Med | 4 | 1⅞" x 1⅞" | 2⅛" x 2⅛" | 2⅜" x 2⅜" | 2⅝" x 2⅝" |  |
| 4 | Dark | 2 | 2⅜" x 2⅜" | 2⅞" x 2⅞" | 3⅜" x 3⅜" | 3⅞" x 3⅞" | |
| 5, 6 | Light | 4 | 2⅜" x 2⅜" | 2⅞" x 2⅞" | 3⅜" x 3⅜" | 3⅞" x 3⅞" | |
| 7 | Med | 2 | 3⅜" x 3⅜" | 4⅜" x 4⅜" | 5⅜" x 5⅜" | 6⅜" x 6⅜" | |
| 8 | Light | 1 | 1" x 7 | 1¼" x 9 | 1½" x 11" | 1¾" x 13" | --- |
| 9 | Dark | 1 | 1" x 7 | 1¼" x 9 | 1½" x 11" | 1¾" x 13" | --- |
| 10 | Light | 1 | 1½" x 7 | 2" x 9 | 2½" x 11" | 3" x 13" | --- |
| 11 | Med | 1 | 1½" x 1½" | 2" x 2" | 2½" x 2½" | 3" x 3" | --- |
| Unfinished Block Size | 5 1/2" | 8" | 10 1/2" | 13" | --- | ||
| Grid Size | 1/2" | 3/4" | 1 | 1 1/4" | --- | ||
Traditional piecing
 | Cutting Chart for a~Traditional Piecing ~ | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Patch | Fabric | Qty | Finished Block Size | Sub Cut | |||
| 5" | 7½" | 10" | 12½" | ||||
| 1 | Dark | 4 | 1" x 1" | 1¼" x 1¼" | 1½" x 1½" | 1¾" x 1¾" | --- |
| 2, 3 | Med | 4 | 1⅜" x 1⅜" | 1⅝" x 1⅝" | 1⅞" x 1⅞" | 2⅛" x 2⅛" | |
| 4 | Dark | 2 | 1⅞" x 1⅞" | 2⅜" x 2⅜" | 2⅞" x 2⅞" | 3⅜" x 3⅜" | |
| 5, 6 | Light | 4 | 1⅞" x 1⅞" | 2⅜" x 2⅜" | 2⅞" x 2⅞" | 3⅜" x 3⅜" | |
| 7 | Med | 2 | 2⅞" x 2⅞" | 3⅞" x 3⅞" | 4⅞" x 4⅞" | 5⅞" x 5⅞" | |
| 8 | Light | 1 | 1" x 7" | 1¼" x 9" | 1½" x 11" | 1¾" x 13" | --- |
| 9 | Dark | 1 | 1" x 7" | 1¼" x 9" | 1½" x 11" | 1¾" x 13" | --- |
| 10 | Light | 1 | 1½" x 7" | 2" x 9" | 2½" x 11" | 3" x 13" | --- |
| 11 | Med | 1 | 1½" x 1½" | 2" x 2" | 2½" x 2½" | 3" x 3" | --- |
| Unfinished Block Size | 5½" | 8" | 10½" | 13" | --- | ||
| Grid Size | ½" | ¾" | 1" | 1¼" | |||
Step 2: Assemble the units for a Harmony Square
Corners
Make 4
In our sample Harmony Square this unit is paperpieced.
However, I realize that not everyone cares for that technique, so you can choose traditional piecing instructions instead. For those instructions, click here.
Otherwise, for all you paperpiecers continue on here.
General Sewing Machine Setup for Paperpiecing
- Reduce your stitch length to 15-20 stitches per inch. This perforates the paper and provides stability to the seam as you remove it.
- Install an open toe applique foot if you have one (it's easier to see where you're stitching with one installed).
- Use a larger needle (90/14) if you have problems removing the paper.
- As you stitch each seam, start and stop a generous 1/4" before and after the solid stitching lines. Future lines of stitching secure the ends.
After adding each patch, press the unit as it came off the sewing machine to set the seam. Then press it open. It is automatically pressed towards the last patch added.
Steam is optional and usually curls the paper. If that bothers you, don't use steam.
Trim away the excess paper from each unit just outside the dashed lines. There's no benefit to being neat, a rough trim will do here.
Use the tiniest dab of Elmer's Washable Glue stick to adhere the wrong side of a #1 to the unprinted side of the pattern. Use the dashed placement guides for fast and accurate positioning.
With RST align the short side of a #2 with the #1.
Stitch on the solid line between #1 and #2 starting and stopping a generous 1/4" from the beginning and ending of the line. Each line you stitch is stitched in this same manner to insure secure seams.
Press.
Repeat this same process for #3.
Time to trim the SA of #2 and #3. At the cutting mat, lay the unit printing up.
You'll need to pull the fabric away from the pattern a little...it may tear a bit(pink arrow). That's normal.
Align the edge of your ruler with the solid line between #2/#3 and #4. Use your thumbnail to crease the paper on the solid line.
Remove the ruler and fold the pattern back on itself on this line.
Position the ruler with its 1/4" marks(pink arrow below) on the fold of the pattern and trim away the excess fabric.
Some quilters find this job easier with an Add-A-Quarter Ruler.
Use this same technique every time you need to trim a seam while piecing this corner unit.
With RST, align the long bias edge of #4 with the trimmed #2/#3 edges.
For quick placement, the point of the #4 patch should be oppositie the point on the pattern (white arrows). You can just barely make out the printing on the pattern here.Stitch the seam. Since it runs from edge-to-edge, you can chain piece this step.
Press.
Our Harmony Square quilt block is coming along nicely!Trim the seam allowance as you did before for #2/#3 for both unstitched sides of #4.
After trimming, with RST position the short side of a #5 with the edge of #4.
The fold lines in the paper are from the creasing I did to trim the #4 patch to sizeStitch and press.
Repeat for #6.
Adding #6Press.
Trim the #5/#6 SA as you did before.
The 1/4" line on your ruler is right on top of the folded edge of the pattern(pink arrow).With RST align the long bias edge of #7 with the freshly trimmed edges of #5/#6.
Position the point opposite the corner of the pattern.Stitch and press.
All that's left is do is trim the unit to size.
At your cutting mat, paper side up, place the 1/4" mark on your ruler directly on the solid outside line of the pieced corner unit.
Trim the excess away with your rotary cutter.
Match the 1/4" mark on your ruler with the solid outline of the corner(pink arrow)Repeat for all four sides of all four units.
This is what they look like after all is said and done.
Don't forget to remove the paper from your Harmony Square corners.Return your sewing machine to your everyday settings.
The remainder of the block is stitched with traditional techniques.
Install your favorite quarter inch presser foot. Adjust the needle position if needed. Increase the stitch length.
Click here to go directly to the Side units for this Harmony Square quilt block...
Or...
...click here to see how the Corners are pieced using traditional methods.
No time to quilt today? Pin this tutorial for later...
For even more blocks to make...
These are my go-to resources for quilt block ideas. Click the images to learn more.
Maggie Malone's 5500 Quilt Block Designs is my all-time favorite quilt block resource!
It's in color.
It's got a ton of blocks.
What's not to love?
Next on my 'must-have' list is Barbara Brackman's Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns.
Unlike the Maggie Malone book, the blocks in this volume are hand-drawn and in black and white—no color.
Personally, I prefer colored drawings to work with.
This book is no longer in print. If you can come by a copy expect it to be wickedly expensive.
However...
BlockBase is the computerized version of the Encyclopedia.
It can be used with Electric Quilt and is a Windows based program.
Finally there is The Quilter's Album of Patchwork Patterns by Jinny Beyer.
Lots of detail and in color, it is a beautiful volume. That said, I check it out of my local library on a regular basis instead of purchasing it.
Why? Simply because I own the previous three references and find this the least user-friendly of the group.
It would make a fabulous coffee table book.
If this information was useful to you, please share it with your quilting friends. Thank you!
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