Harmony Square Quilt Block

From our Free Quilt Block Pattern Library

This post contains affiliate links for which I receive compensation.


Be at peace with your inner quilter while stitching up the Harmony Square quilt block.

Both paperpiecing and traditional piecing techniques are presented. Choose the method that works best for you.

In this tutorial are:

It's time to cut up and sew!

General Instructions

Several abbreviations are used on this page. They are:

  • SA - seam allowance
  • RST - right sides together
  • HST - half square triangles

1/4" SA are used through this tutorial. 

When instructed to press, first press the patches in the closed position just as they came off your sewing machine. This sets the seam, melding the thread into the fibers of the fabric.

In paperpiecing, SA are always pressed towards the last added patch.

Pressing instructions are highlighted in yellow throughout this tutorial.

Download and print paperpiecing units

If you prefer traditional piecing methods, omit this printing and skip to Step 1. Use the green cutting chart. Follow the traditional piecing instructions in Step 2 for the corner units.

For all you paperpiecers, follow the instructions below to download and print the patterns used to complete this block.

Print the paper piecing patterns you need

You'll need the most current version of Adobe installed on your computer to download the pattern.

On the Adobe Print Menu page, under 'Page Size and Handling' set 'Custom Scale' to 100% before printing for accurate results. Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.

Choose your Finished Block Size from the chart below and print the corresponding number of pages for a total of four units.

Print the Harmony Square Units

Click on the Finished
Block Size
Print
this many copies
for each block
5" 1
7-1/2" 1
10" 2
12-1/2" 4

After printing, use the 1" square graphic on the printed page(s) to check that the patterns printed correctly.

Read my review of 6 paper piecing papers available on the market

Not sure which paper to use?

Check out my review of several of the most popular brands available to us quilters on the market.

Which one will you choose?

New fabric to drool over!

Click any of the images below to see the full collection with bigger pictures and find pricing/ordering information.

Check out ALL the current fabric lines displayed on this site in one place.

Step 1: Cutting your Harmony Square quilt block

Harmony Square patchwork designHarmony Square design

Sample Block Size: 10" finished / 10½:" unfinished

Grid: 10x10, uneven 9-patch construction

Attribution: Nancy Cabot

Design Type: Uneven 9-patch small center

A light, a medium and a dark fabric are needed to complete this patchwork design.

Please label all your patches. We refer to their numbers throughout this tutorial.

To print a copy of just the block design above and cutting charts below to use at your cutting table, click here.

Includes paperpiecing

Generations Quilt Patterns logo

Cutting Chart for a
Harmony Square Quilt Block

~Paperpiecing PLUS Traditional Piecing ~

PatchFabricQtyFinished Block SizeSub
Cut
5" 7 1/2" 10" 12 1/2"
1 Dark 4 1¼" x 1¼" 1½" x 1½" 1¾" x 1¾" 2" x 2" ---
2,3 Med 4 1⅞" x 1⅞" 2⅛" x 2⅛" 2⅜" x 2⅜" 2⅝" x 2⅝" Symbol for a half square triangle
4 Dark 2 2⅜" x 2⅜" 2⅞" x 2⅞" 3⅜" x 3⅜" 3⅞" x 3⅞" Symbol for a half square triangle
5, 6 Light 4 2⅜" x 2⅜" 2⅞" x 2⅞" 3⅜" x 3⅜" 3⅞" x 3⅞" Symbol for a half square triangle
7 Med 2 3⅜" x 3⅜" 4⅜" x 4⅜" 5⅜" x 5⅜" 6⅜" x 6⅜" Symbol for a half square triangle
8 Light 1 1" x 7 1¼" x 9 1½" x 11" 1¾" x 13" ---
9 Dark 1 1" x 7 1¼" x 9 1½" x 11" 1¾" x 13" ---
10 Light 1 1½" x 7 2" x 9 2½" x 11" 3" x 13" ---
11 Med 1 1½" x 1½" 2" x 2" 2½" x 2½" 3" x 3" ---
Unfinished Block Size 5 1/2" 8" 10 1/2" 13" ---
Grid Size 1/2" 3/4" 1 1 1/4" ---

Traditional piecing

Generations Quilt Patterns logo

Cutting Chart for a
Harmony Square Quilt Block

~Traditional Piecing ~

PatchFabricQtyFinished Block SizeSub
Cut
5" 7½" 10" 12½"
1 Dark 4 1" x 1" 1¼" x 1¼" 1½" x 1½" 1¾" x 1¾" ---
2, 3 Med 4 1⅜" x 1⅜" 1⅝" x 1⅝" 1⅞" x 1⅞" 2⅛" x 2⅛" Symbol for a half square triangle
4 Dark 2 1⅞" x 1⅞" 2⅜" x 2⅜" 2⅞" x 2⅞" 3⅜" x 3⅜" Symbol for a half square triangle
5, 6 Light 4 1⅞" x 1⅞" 2⅜" x 2⅜" 2⅞" x 2⅞" 3⅜" x 3⅜" Symbol for a half square triangle
7 Med 2 2⅞" x 2⅞" 3⅞" x 3⅞" 4⅞" x 4⅞" 5⅞" x 5⅞" Symbol for a half square triangle
8 Light 1 1" x 7" 1¼" x 9" 1½" x 11" 1¾" x 13" ---
9 Dark 1 1" x 7" 1¼" x 9" 1½" x 11" 1¾" x 13" ---
10 Light 1 1½" x 7" 2" x 9" 2½" x 11" 3" x 13" ---
11 Med 1 1½" x 1½" 2" x 2" 2½" x 2½" 3" x 3" ---
Unfinished Block Size 5½" 8" 10½" 13" ---
Grid Size ½" ¾" 1" 1¼"
Flea Market fabric line by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Available from Fat Quarter Shop.

Step 2: Assemble the units for a Harmony Square

Corners

Corner patchwork

Make 4

In our sample Harmony Square this unit is paperpieced.

However, I realize that not everyone cares for that technique, so you can choose traditional piecing instructions instead. For those instructions, click here.

Otherwise, for all you paperpiecers continue here.

General Sewing Machine Setup for Paperpiecing

  • Reduce your stitch length to 16-20 stitches per inch (1.3-1.6mm). This perforates the paper. It also stabilizes the seam when you remove the pattern. [Learn more about stitch length here.]
  • Reduce your machine's speed or just plain slow down when you stitch. Sew only as fast as you can stay on the stitching lines.
  • Install an open toe applique foot (sometimes called an 'embroidery' or 'satin stitch' foot) if you have one (it's easier to see where you're stitching with one installed). 
  • As you stitch each seam, start and stop a generous 1/4" before and after the solid stitching lines. ALWAYS. Future lines of stitching secure the ends.

After adding each patch, press the unit as it was sewn to set the seam. Then press it open. The SA is automatically pressed towards the last patch added.

Steam is optional and usually curls the pattern. 

If that bothers you, don't use steam. Sometimes I do. Sometimes I don't.

It really just depends on my mood.

Remember as you follow this paper piecing tutorial, the printed and the fabric sides of this block are mirror-images of each other.

At last!

Let's sew!

Trim away the excess paper from each unit just outside the dashed lines. There's no benefit to being neat, a rough trim will do here.

On to the piecing!

Using the tiniest dab of Elmer's Washable Glue stick stick the wrong side of a #1 to the unprinted side of the pattern. Use the dashed placement guides for fast and accurate positioning.

Position #1 using the dashed guidelinesThat was quick and easy to position!

With RST align the short side of a #2 with the #1.

Add #2 to #1

Stitch on the solid line between #1 and #2 starting and stopping a generous 1/4" from the beginning and ending of the line. Each line you stitch is stitched in this same manner to insure secure seams.

Press.

Repeat this same process for #3.

Adding #3 to #1/#2That long straggly thread tail peaking out from the printed side will get trimmed away.

Time to trim the SA of #2 and #3. At the cutting mat, lay the unit printing up.

You'll need to pull the fabric away from the pattern a little...it will tear a bit (pink arrow). That's normal.

Trim away the excess past a 1/4

Align the edge of your ruler with the solid line between #2/#3 and #4. Use your thumbnail to crease the paper on the solid line.

Remove the ruler and fold the pattern back on itself on this line.

Position the ruler with its 1/4" marks (pink arrow below) on the fold of the pattern and trim away the excess fabric.

Position the 1/4

Some quilters find this job easier with an Add-A-Quarter PLUS  Ruler.

Use this same technique every time you need to trim a seam while piecing this corner unit.

With RST, align the long bias edge of #4 with the trimmed #2/#3 edges.

Line up the corner with the pointFor quick placement, the point of the #4 patch should be opposite the point on the pattern (white arrows). You can just barely make out the printing on the other side of the pattern.

Stitch the seam. Since it runs from edge-to-edge, you can chain piece this step.

Press. 

A lovely matchOur Harmony Square quilt block is coming along nicely!

Trim the seam allowance as you did before for #2/#3 for both unstitched sides of #4.

After trimming, with RST position the short side of a #5 with the edge of #4.

Position #5The fold lines in the paper are from the creasing I did to trim the #4 patch to size

Stitch and press.

Repeat for #6.

Position #6Adding #6

Press.

Trim the #5/#6 SA as you did before.

After trimming #5/#6The 1/4" line on your ruler is right on top of the folded edge of the pattern(pink arrow).

With RST align the long bias edge of #7 with the freshly trimmed edges of #5/#6.

Positioning #7Position the point opposite the corner of the pattern.

Stitch and press.

All that's left is do is trim the unit to size.

At your cutting mat, paper side up, place the 1/4" mark on your ruler directly on the solid outside line of the pieced corner unit.

Trim the excess away with your rotary cutter.

Trimming to sizeMatch the 1/4" mark on your ruler with the solid outline of the corner(pink arrow)

Repeat for all four sides of all four units.

This is what they look like after all is said and done.

Don't forget to remove the paper from your Harmony Square corner units.

Return your sewing machine to your everyday settings.

The remainder of the block is stitched with traditional techniques.

Install your favorite quarter inch presser foot. Adjust the needle position if needed. Increase to your normal piecing stitch length.

Share your work to inspire other Quilters!

If you use our tutorials to make your blocks and quilts, there are some easy ways to share your creations so other quilters (including me!) can enjoy the fruits of your labor:

  • On Instagram please tag your blocks and quilts with the hashtag #GenerationsQuiltPatterns.
  • Visit our Show n'Tell page on the website. Click here to share photos and tell your own story, just start typing at 'The name of your quilt is...'. If you'd prefer to submit more photos than the form allows, simply email them to me at julie@generations-quilt-patterns.com.

I love seeing your work!

Our readers do, too!

For even more blocks to make...

Click here to learn about my favorite quilt book resources that inspire my patchwork designs.

For you, are quilt block patterns like potato chips...

...you can't have just one?!!

Check the amazing resources I rely on for the majority of the quilt block designs you see on this website. 

To see if they're worthy of spot in YOUR quilting library, read about them HERE.

NOTE: All the attribution and alternate names shared in the Free Quilt Block Patterns Library came from these four resources.


This article was printed from Generations-Quilt-Patterns.com

Print Article