Skill Level: Beginner
A Santa Fe quilt block is an nontraditional design made with very traditional piecing techniques.
A few connector corners are thrown in for good measure and simplicity. That's all there is to it.
I DO know the way to Santa Fe and I'm going there now and won't let you lose your way.
Come with me and learn to make this interesting nine patch patchwork design!
Seam allowances (SA) are 1/4".
Starching your quilt fabric before cutting, I believe, makes for more precise cuts and easier, more accurate stitching.
You'll see me switch between my favorite quarter inch foot with a guide and an open toe applique foot to make the stitching easier.
Strong contrast between the two fabrics gives this patchwork design more impact.
Solids, or fabrics that read as solids like tone-on-tones or low contrast, are good choices for the smallest block sizes so that the design doesn't get 'mushy' or disappear.
Santa Fe Quilt Block
|Finished Block Size|
|Fabric||Qty||4 1/2"||9 "||18 "|
|4||Background||1||1” x 5”||1-1/2” x 7”||2-1/2” x 11”|
|5||A||2||1” x 5”||1-1/2” x 7”||2-1/2” x 11”|
|6||A||8||1” x 2”||1-1/2” x 3-1/2”||2-1/2” x 6-1/2”|
|Unfinished Block Size||5 "||9 1/2"||18 1/2"|
|Grid Size||1/2"||1 "||2 "|
Arrange all the #2s and four of the #3 patches into a standard nine-patch arrangement with the #2s in the corners and center.
With right sides together, stitch the squares in each column together, pressing the SAs towards the darker #2s.
Stitch the rows together, pinning if it helps you to match the SA. Press the SA either in or out. The finished unit looks like this...
With RST, sew a #4 and #5 together along the long edge. Then add the second #5 so that the fabrics alternate.
SA are pressed toward the darker fabric.
Straighten the edge of the strip set by lining up the seam lines with the marks on your ruler (arrows). Trim away just a smidgeon with your rotary cutter.
Find the Finished Block Size in the chart below and cut four segments from it at the Subcut Width.
|Subcutting Chart for the Santa Fe Quilt Block|
| Unfinished Sewn|
Width of Strip Set
With RST, sew a #6 to each side of the #5/#4/#5 patch as shown below. Make 4. SA are pressed towards #6.
Mark the backside of sixteen #7s with a diagonal line. Position a marked #7 in each corner.
I prefer to use my open toe applique foot for stitching on drawn lines like this because there's nothing between my eyes and the needle.
You can trim away the excess in the corners of the #7s as shown below. Leave a 1/4" seam allowance. (below, left) All you can see (just barely) on the back are the stitching lines. (below, right)
Or you can cut away the excess of both the #6 and #7 patches leaving the same 1/4" SA. From the back it looks like this...
Repeat these steps for a total of 4 "O's".
If you'd switched to an open toe applique foot, switch back to your favorite 1/4" foot now.
Arrange your cut squares and pieced units into rows like this. The 'O' units look a little off kilter right now. That's OK. The upcoming seams square off the block a bit and make it look 'right'.
With RST, stitch the units in each row together. SA are pressed toward the solid cut squares and the nine-patch to reduce bulk.
Helpful Tip: I find it much easier to ensure the match of the points of the "O" block to the squares in the 9-patch if I use pins. [Click here to learn about the technique I use...]
You can see the head of one of my perpendicular 'matching' pins in front of the needle bar below.
Give your Santa Fe quilt block one final press. If you've left the back layer of the corners in your "O" units, your block might be a bit lumpy. Try my favorite pressing technique to squash that lumpiness into oblivion!
Here is our finished Santa Fe!
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