Triangle Paper Options

For all your half square triangles needs

by Julie Baird

This post contains affiliate links for which I receive compensation.

Using different triangle paper options to make half square triangle units.

The choice is yours! With several pre-printed triangle paper products on the market you're sure to find one that fits your needs.

Most are printed on paper—one you print on your home computer (Triangulations™) and two are pre-printed (Thangles™ and Triangles on a Roll™). And one is printed on a fusible interfacing (Ta-Da Triangles™) so there's no paper to remove at the end.

Something to meet every quilter's needs.

The instructions and tips shared on the 'Half Square Triangle Paper' techniques page generally apply to these products, too.

If you've never used this technique and would like to try before you buy, click here for free sheets to download.

Triangle Paper Options

If you're printing your own triangle paper on your home computer, my preferred paper is Carol Doak's Foundation Paper.

Click here for more info
about my favorite paper

It's a light-weight, plain newsprint that easily tears away from your stitches. Two sizes are available: 8-1/2"x11" and 8-1/2"x14". I keep both on hand.

Paper for Foundation Piecing by That Patchwork Place runs a close second.

I've tried other cheaper versions of newsprint (like from the Dollar Store) and have not had good luck feeding them through my HP Laserjet printer.

I'll also tried the reams of 8-1/2"x11" newsprint with no better results.

Other quilters have reported success with these cheaper alternatives. If they are within your budget it's worth a try to test them for yourself.

But because of my own testing, I stick with Carol Doak's product. It works every time.

In a pinch regular printer paper will do. The cheaper the better because it's thinner. Thinner is easier to tear away.

Triangulations™ 4.0

If you liked using the free triangle paper from this site, you'll love Triangulations™ 4.0 by Brenda Henning.

Click here to learn more

It's a computer CD that allows you to print a wide variety of 'triangle' based units—right on your home printer—virtually eliminating the need to ever buy ANY triangle paper products again—except for the paper to print them on! :)

The CD works for both PC and Mac computers because it is not dependent on your computer's operating system.

You do need the latest version of Adobe to print the pages. (If you've printed the half square triangle paper offered earlier on this page, you've already got it installed. And it is free.)

The CD lets you print the following

HST From 1/2" to 7-1/2" in 1/16" increments

QST from 3/4" to 7-1/2" in 1/8" increments

Tamed Geese Foundations from 1/2"x1" to 3-3/4" x 7-1/2"

The newest version, 4.0, also lets you print STRIP HST foundations (much like Thangles™—see below) for units from 1/2" to 4-1/2" in 1/4" increments

The CD provides four bonus quilt patterns to practice on. The units printed are formatted to fit on standard 8-1/2"x11" computer paper.

Click here to purchase Triangulations™ 4.0 from Amazon.com.

Thangles™

This pre-printed triangle paper is printed on strips that are one unit wide.

Thangles™ come in short sheets, one unit wide.

Two strips of fabric are layered RST. I use strips a wee bit longer than the paper. Pin to hold things together avoiding the dashed sewing lines.

The beauty of Thangles™ is that the width of the fabric strips is precisely cut to the width of the paper.

Ready to stitch

This is particularly helpful if you have a stash of pre-cut strips like Jelly Rolls or if you use Bonnie Hunter's method of organizing your scraps by pre-cutting them into standard sizes.

The math is easy, too. There's no 'seven eighths' rule to remember. Just cut strips 1/2" wider than the finished unit measures.

I like to start my stitching on a scrap of fabric—I believe I get a better first stitch that way. The red scrap is my starter patch.

Use a shorter, 1.2-1.5mm (18-20 stitches/inch). The extra stitching helps the HST stand up to the strain of pulling off the paper.

After stitching, press to set the seam.

Rotary cut on all the solid lines.

Pay attention to the thicker solid line between the pairs of HST. There's a fine white line down the center of it. That is your cutting line.

Pointing out the thin white line on the cutting lines

You can just barely make out the thin white cutting lines (purple arrows)

Finally, tear away the paper.

Give your HST a final press.

Like magic, the HST unit is the same width as the strip it was cut from.

That means you can cut your squares and rectangles from the same strips, saving fabric and time. Sweet!

Packs are available for finished HST sizes:1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2", 1-3/4", 2", 2-1/4", 2-1/2", 3", 3-1/2", 4", 4-1/2", 5", 5-1/2" and 6".

They also come in a Mini-Pack that is a combo pack that includes both 1/2" and 3/4" finished units.

Below are some of the different sizes available directly from Amazon.com. If you're on the fence about this product, take a minute and read the customer reviews.

Triangles on a Roll™

Much like Thangles, Triangles on a Roll™ let you easily choose smaller numbers of the same sized HST to make because you cut only as many as you need.

You'll notice the cut edge is a bit wonky. No problem. I used it in the example. When cutting just measure out from the next solid line.

Cut out the desired number of units. Cut your two HST fabrics a bit larger than the paper. I generally add 1/2" to both dimensions.

Layer the two fabrics RST. Lay the Triangles on a Roll™printed side up on top. Pin the layers together, avoiding the dashed lines.

Pin the fabrics and paper pattern together

Keep the pins away from the dotted lines for uninterrupted sewing.

Because we're stitching through paper, use a smaller stitch length, 18-20 stitches per inch (1.2-1.5mm).

Sew slow enough that you stay on the line.

Sew on the dashed lines in the direction of the arrows.

Press after all the lines are sewn to set the seams.

Rotary cut on all the solid lines.

Remove the paper and press again.

Triangles on a Roll™ are available in the following sizes: 1-1/4", 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3", 4", 4-1/2", 5" and 6" finished.

Quarter Square Triangles on a Roll™ and Flying Geese and Flying Geese Braids (1-1/2"x3", 2-1/2"x5" and 3"x6") are also available and use the same stitching technique.

Triangles on a Roll™ are available from the Fat Quarter Shop and Amazon.com.

Ta-Da Triangles™

This product is printed on sheets of non-woven fusible interfacing. Packages include multiple sheets approximately 19-1/2" wide. The number of HST a package makes is printed on the front just underneath the finished size.

Ta-Da Triangles are printed on a non-woven fusible interfacing.

Like all other triangle papers, you cut off only what you need. While the lines appear faint in the picture, they ARE dark enough to see when you're sewing.

A group of Ta-Da triangles trimmed from a sheet

Cut on the solid lines to separate as many units as you need.

With a dry iron, position the bumpy side—that's the side with the fusible— on the backside of your fabric.

I have to admit I was a wee bit leery about the accuracy of the product—seriously it's ironed to the fabric—I assumed there'd be some distortion during the fusing process.

But I was wrong...

...and pleasantly surprised.

Simply follow the directions and press (not iron) the fusible to the fabric. You use a polyester setting. It works like a dream.

Because there's no paper to remove, you can use your regular sized needle and standard piecing stitch length.

Layer your fused fabric RST with the second half square triangle fabric.

Simply stitch on all the dotted lines.

In this example, I've pinned the layers together avoiding any of the stitching lines.

Sew only as fast as allows you to stitch directly on the line.

Use your rotary cutter and ruler to cut apart the HST on the solid lines.

A quarter inch foot with a flange on the righthand side

My favorite 1/4" foot

The interfacing is light enough that its effect on the hand of your fabric is barely noticeable.

It does add a bit of stabilization to the cut edges.

This is particularly helpful if you're using a presser foot with a guide or flange on the right-hand side (you'll need an adjustable needle position to use this type of presser foot).

To order, click here to purchase directly from Ta-Da Quilt Products.