Using a Rail Fence quilt as an example
A quilter, Lorraine G., recently asked for quilt fabric yardage requirements for a quilt she planned to make.
Specifically she wanted to know:
With only three unique patches (and all of the same size) to consider, this question provides the perfect example for learning to calculate yardage requirements.
There are two ways to do it.
In the first section we'll explore using quilt design software (EQ7) to figure it out.
Further down this page, we'll use paper, pencil and a calculator starting with a list of the orderly steps in the calculations and then going through our Rail Fence example with two different block design.
Let's get started!
Due to its limited fabric palette, strip piecing is the most efficient way to piece this quilt.
Using this technique means each strip's width must be easy to cut with a rotary cutter and ruler—that means no 1/3" units since the majority of rotary rulers are labelled in 1/4" and 1/8" increments.
The only ruler I've ever seen with 1/3" increments is the Wonder Ruler, click here to learn about it.
To meet Lorraine's requirements and this cutting limitation, I drafted two different blocks into my Electric Quilt—a quilt design software for both the PC and Mac.
In this first option (left), each 6-1/2"(unfinished) unit contains a unique patch from each of the three fabrics.
Four units are then stitched into a block that measures 12-1/2" unfinished (12" finished).
Using a straight set layout of 8 x 8 blocks, the finished patchwork measures 96-1/2" square including 1/4" binding, slightly above Lorraine's size requirement.
The patchwork design looks like this...
For the patchwork design above, the program returned these yardages:
You will need additional fabric for binding. At this time (Nov. '20) these calculations are not available within the EQ program.
On this site, there are charts to help you determine the amount of binding you'll need based on the size of your quilt. Click here for that information.
In this second block option, the strips from these three fabrics are cut 1-1/2" wide.
The 5-1/2" unfinished units contain 5 strips. Unlike Option 1 where each fabric is used just once, here the dark and medium fabrics are each used twice in each unit.
Four units are joined into a block measuring 10-1/2" unfinished (10" finished).
81 blocks are laid out in nine rows of 9 each. The finished patchwork measures 90-1/2" square including 1/4" binding.
The fabrics required as calculated in the EQ program are:
As before, you'll need additional fabric for binding.
The design looks like this...
Swap the position and yardage for just the light and dark fabrics and the patchwork design morphs into this...
The choice is yours!
In drafting this design, it becomes quite apparent that there MUST be a distinct difference in the values of the light, medium and dark fabrics.
Otherwise the design gets really smushy and almost disappears. (Click here to see what I mean!)
There's ALWAYS more than one way to get things done in quilting.
The trick is finding what works best for YOU and what best fits your budget.
To compute the needed quilt fabric yardage, you'll need paper, pencil and a calculator (if you don't care to do the math in your head).
You'll need to have a quilt design with all of its unique patches identified and sized.
Let's get started!
To determine how much fabric is needed to make a quilt, we compute the amounts needed for each unique patch in the design using the following steps:
For both options, the blocks are strip pieced from fabric strips with a usable width of 40"
How many of the unique light patch are needed?
Simply count how many times the light patch appears in the block. In the diagram above it's 4 times.
Multiply this by the number of blocks that contain it:
4/block x 64 = 256 light patches
How many light patches can be cut from a width of fabric?
Each light patch is 2-1/2" x 6-1/2" where 6-1/2" is the unfinished length of a unit. The computation is:
40" strip ÷ 6.5" = 6.153
The decimals go on and on, but there's no need to go further than 3 places.
Since we can't piece with partial patches, round down to get 6 unique light patches from one strip.
How many strips are needed?
Simply do the math.
256 patches ÷ 6 patches/strip = 42.666 strips
This time round up because we use full strips, so it takes a total of 43 strips to cut 256 light rectangles.
How much fabric is needed without insurance?
Remember our strips are cut 2-1/2" wide. Determine the number of inches needed by multiplying:
43 strips x 2.5" = 107.5 inches
To convert to yardage divide by 36":
107.5" ÷ 36" = 2.986 yards
Round up to a number your local quilt store will be happy to cut or 3 yards.
Determine your 'insurance'.
Insurance will differ from quilter-to-quilter and patch-to-patch.
EQ calculated 3-5/8 yards of a light is needed. The program added an additional 5/8 yds or 22-1/2" extra.
Only you can decide if that is right for you. Some of the things that whittle away at the extra inches include:
For this quilt, 5/8 yard looks like a fair amount. Any leftovers can be used in a scrap quilt later, or perhaps even in a pieced backing for THIS quilt.
Since each unique patch is identical in size, the quilt fabric yardage for the medium and dark fabrics is also equal to 3 yards PLUS your insurance amount.
To calculate the quilt fabric yardage for our Option 2 block, follow the same steps, noting that:
Plugging in these values for the dark or medium fabrics:
8/block x 81 blocks = 648 patches
40"/strip ÷ 5.5"/unit = 7.272 or 7/strip
648 patches ÷ 7/strip = 92.571 or 93 strips
93 x 1.5"(strip-width) = 139.5"
139.5" ÷ 36" = 3.875 or
3-7/8 yards each of a dark and a medium PLUS your insurance
Repeat the process for the light (remember it's only used once in each unit):
4/block x 81 blocks = 324 patches
40"/strip ÷ 5.5"/unit = 7.272 or 7/strip
324 patches ÷ 7/strip = 46.285 or 47 strips
47 x 1.5" = 70.5"
70.5" ÷ 36" = 1.958 rounded up to 2 yards PLUS your insurance
The strip piecing technique adds an extra 'twist' on the quilt fabric yardage calculations.
If all the rectangles are cut and stitched individually, then it doesn't make any difference if the yardage is of different widths—simply do the computations for each unique patch from each unique fabric.
With strip piecing, the fabric-strips are sewn together, pressed and then cut into units/patches. If there are several different usable widths, then use the narrowest measurement for the calculations for each fabric used in the strip set.
You can easily see how a narrower width could possibly effect the number of patches able to be cut from each set.
Now this was a simple exercise without a lot of patches to consider.
Regardless of how simple or complicated your quilt design is, the steps are exactly the same.
Calculating quilt fabric yardage is no more difficult than that. Just more or less depending on the design.
Write everything down. Date it, too.
That way you have a record if you have to come back at a later time.
It's faster to check your work, than recalculate everything.
Take it one step at a time.
You've got this!