In Part 1, we started with two quilt designs based on the same antique, exactly alike except that one was rotated an 1/8 turn.
Mindful that there's usually more than one way to make a quilt, on this page we'll use standard setting options to discover clues to recreate the pattern.
Three piecing options are explored.
Click here to download and print a worksheet of the quit designs so that you can look for your own piecing solutions as we go along.
Remember that all the seamlines have been deleted so that only the design created by the patchwork shows.
Let's get started.
The simplest quilt designs are when blocks are set edge-to-edge with no sashing.
To locate a block, look for repeats and mirror images. These occur at the edges of these patchwork units.
My preference is to paperpiece the square-in-a-square units in the corners.
No matter how tired I am, they come out perfect every time without a lot of wasted fabric. (Another quilter might choose to use Connector Corners to make these units—either way works just fine!)
And there's four of them to match(red circles) at each corner of the block. That's a lot of lumpiness to ditch quilt through.
Hmmm. Let's see if there's another way to piece this antique quilt design.
This time we look for a unit that repeats, surrounded on four sides by another unit(s) that repeats (the sashing).
Refer to the design again. Can you see a repeat?
Is it surrounded by another repeating unit?
The four repeating sides plus square cornerstones create a grid that is
In our patchwork, the cornerstone is a solid square, the sashing is strip-pieced, and the block is called 'Mosaic #3'—while the structure of the block is the same, I've again taken liberty with the fabric placement and reversed the lights and darks.
The lumpiness in Solution #1, Broken Wheel, is gone, except we've
traded the 'lumpies' for Mosaic #3, something that might be a pain to piece. 'Especially if there's a lot of them!
A paper pieced pattern is easy to draw in Electric Quilt.
Unfortunately, it needs to be put together in 3 sections.
Another way to piece Mosaic #3 is to use templates to cut the patches. I can draft and print them quite easily with Electric Quilt 7.
Many don't care to use templates (unless forced to) because it's extra work.
If I didn't have EQ7, I'd be hard-pressed to spend my time drafting templates. Don't worry—I've got you covered—if there's any templates used on this website, I always provide links to downloads for you!
If the ruler works out, I suspect Solution #2 will be better than #1. There's less bulk where I intend to quilt due to the simple sashing.
Which option matches your preferences best?
Let's see if there's another possibility.
Let's look at the design after it's been rotated an 1/8 turn. Can you see two alternating patterns?
See how easy it was to discover another option, simply by looking at the patchwork pattern from another direction?
It's simple to piece
in one unit, unlike the separate sections in the Mosaic #3. The
numbers in the drawing show the order the patches are added and stitched.
To insure the points match exactly where they should, this 'O' block is drawn on a 3x3 grid, just like Shoo Fly.
Each piecing alternative has its pros and cons based on your own preferences and skills. I've shared my own preferences only as an illustration, not a the definitive way to make your choice.
As you deconstruct the antique quilt designs you see, the ultimate way to determine which piecing method is best is to actually piece a few sample blocks.
To be honest, I HATE the work involved in making these extra blocks, but I LOVE the results. There is no better way than to try to know how smoothly—or not—they will go together.
These samples needn't be wasted. They can always be pieced into your quilt's backing to show how your quilt came to be.
In Part 3 of this series, we'll explore the idea of creating blocks in sizes that appeal to your skill level and how the block size affects your time, fabric and money constraints.