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The Sun Never Sets on an Evening Star Quilt Block

From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library

Evening Star quilt block

Skill Level: Beginner

Grid: 4x4

The Evening Star quilt block is one of many variations of a Sawtooth Star block—this time the star is light and the background is dark.

We'll use a technique called 'connector corners' to make the four Flying Geese units needed for this block.

Since the piecing goes so very quickly, this would be a good option for a last minute baby quilt.

If you're a machine embroiderer, the open, un-pieced center square in the 8" finished block is 4", making it the perfect size to showcase one of your many 4" machine embroidery collections.

That open space makes this block ideal for a signature quilt—for a retirement party, bridal shower or for a child going off to college in need of some reassurance.

Included on this page are instructions for 4", 6", 8", 10" and 12" blocks.





General Instructions


All seams are 1/4".

The following abbreviations are used:

  • SA - seam allowance(s)
  • RST - right sides together
  • FG - Flying Geese units

When it's time to press, first press the pieced unit flat to set the seam. Then open the patch, pressing from the front. Suggestions as to which way to press the seams are included below.

A directional print is used as the light fabric in this example. Instructions are given so that the fabric design flows in one direction when the block is finished.


Step 1: Cut patches for an Evening Star block


Evening Star block designEvening Star design

While the diagram and our 8" sample block have a dark background, there's no reason that you can't swap the values.

As with any design with points, use fabrics with a good contrast (either in value or pattern) so that your points show from a distance.

I like to starch my quilt fabric before cutting. For this block, it'll make finger-pressing the FG so much easier to do.

Generations Quilt Patterns logo

Cutting Chart for an
Evening Star Quilt Block

~Traditional Piecing ~

PatchFabricQtyFinished Block Size
4" 6" 8" 10" 12"
1 D 4 1½" x 2½" 2" x 3½" 2½" x 4½" 3" x 5½" 3½" x 6½"
2 L 8 1½" x 1½" 2" x 2" 2½" x 2½" 3" x 3" 3½" x 3½"
3 L 1 2½" 2½" 3½" x 3½" 4½" x 4½" 5½" x 5½" 6½" x 6½"
4 D 4 1½" x 1½" 2" x 2" 2½" x 2½" 3" x 3" 3½" x 3½"
Unfinished Block Size 4½" 6½" 8½" 10½" 12½"
Grid Size 1" 1½" 2" 2½" 3"

These are some of the supplies I use to prepare and cut my fabric.



These are the cut patches to make this block.


The patches needed to make an Evening Star quilt block



Step 2: Assemble the Evening Star units


Flying Geese Units

Make 4

Flying Geese unitFlying Geese unit

Mark the back of each of the eight #2 light squares with a diagonal line drawn from corner to corner.

Use a light touch, marking only as dark as you need to see the line.


Mark a diagonal line on the back of connector corners

In the top row the line is drawn from upper left to lower right. In
the bottom row the line is drawn the opposite direction from upper
right to lower left.

To keep the lines of our light directional fabric aligned in the finished block, notice that the line is drawn in one direction for half the squares and the opposite way for the other half. 

If you are using a non-directional fabric, it makes no difference which direction the lines are drawn in.

Each Flying Geese will take one #1 and two #2 patches to make.


A Flying Geese takes 3 patches

Only draw the lines as dark as YOU need to see them. These are
drawn darker than usual so that you can see them.

With RST, align one light #2 square with the end of a #1 dark rectangle. The drawn line bisects the corner.

Start your stitching on an anchor cloth to avoid having your machine 'chew' up the corner of the patches. I like to use an open toe applique foot for this sewing—it's easier to see the marking.

Stitch from one end of the drawn line to the other. You can chain stitch these units one after another.


Sew the first seam

The arrow points to the anchor cloth

Press flat to set the seam. Trim a quarter inch seam allowance into the side of the stitching line closest to the unsewn corner.


Trim the seam allowance


Press the light patch open and towards the corner.



Press the unit

Repeat for the 3 remaining rectangles. (Remember that if you're using a directional print to alternate the position of the connector corners as you stitch.)

With RST, stitch the second connector corner, #2, to the other end of the rectangle.

The drawn line bisects the corner on the same long side as the previous connector corner does. Again, you can chain stitch these units one after another.


Stitch the second connector corner

Press flat to set the seam. Then trim the seam allowance to quarter inch. Then press the light patch open and towards the corner.

Check to make sure the edges of the patches align. Trim the light fabric down if needed.


The finished Flying Geese unit

Before moving on, use the chart below to check that your FG are the correct size.

Flying Geese Measurement after Sewing
Finished
Block Size
Flying Geese unit
4" 1½" x 2½"
6" 2" x 3½"
8" 2½" x 4½"
10" 3" x 5½"
12" 3½" x 6½"


Step 3: Assemble the Evening Star


Lay out the pieces for your Evening Star quilt block.


Lay

Sew the units in each row together. Press the seam allowances in the direction of the arrows.


Lay out the rows

Stitch the rows together, pinning if needed.


Stitch the rows together

Press.

Your Evening Star quilt block looks like this from the back.


Finished Evening Star quilt block from the back

Click here to learn the secret of how to press your quilt blocks flatter than ever before. You won't believe just how simple it is, even with the extra layer of fabric in this connector corners technique.

Your finished Evening Star quilt block looks like this.


Finished Evening Star quilt block



Ready for More Blocks?


Oh, my stars!

There's plenty more to keep you busy!

Just check out our Free Quilt Block Pattern Library to find blocks for your next quilting creation!

New blocks are added regularly. Bookmark it for future reference!


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