Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. If you buy thru them, I receive a small commission—at no extra cost to you. This helps me provide all the free information on this site. To learn more, read my full Disclosure Policy.

Flying Kite Quilt Block Tutorial

A Pinwheel-type Design

Flying Kite quilt block instructions

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

Grid: 2x2 (4-patch)

Making a Flying Kite quilt block is Easy Peasey when you paper piece it!

No templates to fiddle around with and perfect little blocks...every time! And the seam allowances are ALWAYS pressed in the right direction.

On this page, you'll find:

  • Free 4" and 6" patterns to download
  • Complete illustrated instructions
  • Two ideas for quilts - one would make a terrific baby quilt
  • Links to resources for other pinwheel type blocks like the Flying Kite

Let's begin!

Construction Instructions

Set up your sewing machine for paper piecing: reduce the stitch length to 1.5 or 15-18 stitches/inch, install an open toe applique foot and, if you find it difficult to remove the paper after all the stitching is complete, install a 90/14 needle.

If you haven't tried it, check out our Best Pressing Technique for the flattest paperpieced blocks you've even seen.

Step 1: Download the pattern

You'll need to have Adobe installed on your computer. If you don't have it, click here to go to Adobe's website to download and install the most current version of the program.

Print the size of your choice:

Remember before printing either pattern sheet set 'Custom Scale' to '100%' under the 'Page Sizing and Handling' heading in order to print the correct block size. There's a 1" square on the download page to help you quickly assess if it's right.

NOTE: The pattern will look like it's backwards and that's exactly right. It's because the unit is asymmetrical and the printed side of the paper pattern is actually the backside of the block.

Step 2: Cut the patches

Flying Kite quilt block design

While many quilters use 'hunks' of fabric to paper piece with, I prefer to pre-cut my patches for traditional blocks. There is less fabric waste, but more importantly, pre-cutting ensures that the outside edges are on the straight of grain. This makes for a more stable block.

After stitching a few, make any adjustments you need to the cut dimensions suggested below.

Finished Block Size
Patch # Fabric Cut 4” 6” Sub Cut
1 A 1 3-3/4” x 3-3/4” 4-7/8” x 4-7/8” Symbol for a quarter square triangle
2 Background 4 1-1/4” x 2-3/4” 1-1/2” x 3-3/4” --
3 B 1 3-5/8” x 3-5/8” 4-5/8” x 4-5/8” Symbol for a quarter square triangle
4 Background 1 3-3/4” x 3-3/4” 4-7/8” x 4-7/8” Symbol for a quarter square triangle
Grid Size 2” 3” na
Unfinished block size 4-1/2” 6-1/2” na

Patches #3 and #4, though identical in finished size, are cut at different sizes to ensure there is adequate fabric around the outside edge for trimming to a perfect block at the end.

Step 3: Assemble the units for your Flying Kite quilt block

Cut the pattern units apart between the dashed lines. This is a rough cut—everything will get prettied up at the end—even all those scraggly thread tails!

Dab a dot of Elmer's glue stick (the one that goes on purple and dries clear) on the unprinted side of the pattern behind #1. Adhere the wrong side of your fabric Patch #1 to the pattern, using the dashed lines for foolproof placement.

You can see how the fabric extends past the dashed outline. We'll trim the excess off at the end for a perfect block.

Position Patch #1 using the dashed guidelines

With right sides together (RST) match the long edge of #2 with #1. (see arrows)

With RST align the edges of #1 and #2

Stitch on the solid line between #1 and #2, starting and stopping past the dotted lines.

Stitch the first seam


Position #3, RST, with the sewn patches—the long edge with#2 and the short edge with #1.

Stitch the seam between #3 and #1.


At this point, we need to trim #3 to establish the placement line for the final patch.

Match the edge of your ruler to the black seamline between #3 and #4. To crease the paper along the ruler's edge, you'll need to pull the it away from the stitching (see the red circle below).

If you accidentally rip the paper too far, you can use a piece of Scotch Brand Magic Tape to repair it. Just be careful not to iron directly on the tape—it will melt! This shouldn't be a problem though, as all the pressing is done from the fabric side of the unit.

Trim Patch #3 to establish the placement line

Line up the 1/4" mark with the folded edge (red arrow) and trim with your rotary cutter.

Trim to establish the placement line

Align the short bias sides of #4, RST, with the sewn unit.

Stitch the seam between #3 and #4, starting and stopping outside the dashed lines.


To trim the units to size, align the 1/4" mark of your ruler with the solid black outside line of each triangular units.

Trim with your rotary cutter and repeat for all sides of all four units.

Helpful Hint

I do trim all three sides at this point. However, if your block regularly comes up a smidge too small, wait to trim the outside edge of the block until all the units are sewn together.

Step 4: Assemble the Flying Kite quilt block

Lay out the units as shown below. Unlike many of the blocks in the library, the units of our Flying Kite are triangular instead of square.

One of the benefits of paperpiecing is that the seam allowances will automatically nest if you followed the order of piecing on the pattern.

Select two adjacent units and with RST pin them, nesting the SA at the center. I like to feed the center or squared end into my sewing machine first.

Pin and stitch two completed units together

You can see in the photo above that I've switched back to my regular 1/4" foot. I am stitching just at the right edge of the black line, at a scant 1/4"

I've found that it's not necessary (most of the time) to push the pin through both layers of paper—through the top layer and then both fabric layers is usually enough.

Repeat for the second pair.

Press with the seam allowance following in the same direction or towards #1. (You can see the SA peeking out below in the corners below.)

Two joined pairs of Flying Kite units

With RST, pin the two halves together, again taking care to match the center. Stitch starting and stopping past the dashed outline.

Stitch the final seam in the Flying Kite quilt block

Press. Twirl the SA if you'd like to reduce bulk in the center of the block.

Trim the dog ears with a scissor (the only one left to trim is circled in red) and your finished Flying Kite quilt block looks like this...

Finished Flying Kite quilt block with one dog ear left to trim

Quilt Ideas using the Flying Kite Quilt Block

Put all the blocks together in a straight set with simple sashing and cornerstones and this is what it looks like...

Flying Kite Quilt, 5 x 7 blocks, straight set

Now swap in all sorts of bright kid prints and you'll have a terrific baby quilt!

Flying Kite quilt block done in bright kid prints for a baby quilt

For more pinwheel-type quilt blocks... here to go to our Free Quilt Block Pattern library and click on any of the blocks that interest you!

Need more inspiration?

Then check out these related books available on


Online Quilting Class

Return to the top of these Flying Kite quilt block instructions

Click here to go to the Home Page

Share Your Comments, Tips and Ideas

Got a Minute?

Please take our 2 question "Getting to Know You" survey to help us create the kind of content YOU find useful.

Search This Site

Quilt patterns, books and kits to tempt you!

Click any of the images or links below for more info...

Awesome Ocean Pattern
by Elizabeth Hartman

Fold-N-Stitch Wreath pattern
Fold-N-Stitch Wreath
by Poorhouse Quilt Design

Farm Girl Vintage
by Lori Holt

Gypsy Wife
by Jen Kingwell

Check out these scrumptious fabrics from

Just click to learn more!

Subscribe... STASH Talk,
our free newsletter.
Simply complete
the form below...

E-mail Address
First Name

Don't worry...
Your e-mail address is
totally secure.

I promise to use it
only to send you
Stash Talk.