For all your half square triangles needs
The choice is yours! With several pre-printed triangle paper products on the market you're sure to find one that fits your needs.
are printed on paper—one you print on your home computer (Triangulations™) and two are pre-printed (Thangles™ and Triangles on a Roll™). And one is printed on a fusible interfacing (Ta-Da Triangles™) so
there's no paper to remove at the end.
Something to meet every quilter's needs.
The instructions and tips shared on the 'Half Square Triangle Paper' techniques page generally apply to these products, too.
If you've never used this technique and would like to try before you buy, click here for free sheets to download.
If you're printing your own triangle paper on your home computer, my preferred paper is Carol Doak's Foundation Paper.
Paper for Foundation Piecing by That Patchwork Place runs a close second.
I've tried other cheaper versions of newsprint (like from the Dollar Store) and have not had good luck feeding them through my HP Laserjet printer.
I'll also tried the reams of 8-1/2"x11" newsprint with no better results.
Other quilters have reported success with these cheaper alternatives. If they are within your budget it's worth a try to test them for yourself.
But because of my own testing, I stick with Carol Doak's product. It works every time.
In a pinch regular printer paper will do. The cheaper the better because it's thinner. Thinner is easier to tear away.
If you liked using the free triangle paper from this site, you'll love Triangulations™ 4.0 by Brenda Henning.
It's a computer CD that
allows you to print a wide variety of 'triangle' based units—right on
your home printer—virtually eliminating the need to ever buy ANY triangle
paper products again—except for the paper to print them on! :)
The CD works for both PC and Mac computers because it is not dependent on your computer's operating system.
You do need the latest version of Adobe to print the pages. (If you've
printed the half square triangle paper offered earlier on this page,
you've already got it installed. And it is free.)
The CD lets you print the following
newest version, 4.0, also lets you print STRIP HST foundations (much
like Thangles™—see below) for units from 1/2" to 4-1/2" in 1/4" increments
The CD provides four bonus quilt patterns to practice on. The units printed are formatted to fit on standard 8-1/2"x11" computer paper.
This pre-printed triangle paper is printed on strips that are one unit wide.
Two strips of fabric are layered RST. I use strips a wee bit longer than the paper. Pin to hold things together avoiding the dashed sewing lines.
The beauty of Thangles™ is that the width of the fabric strips is precisely cut to the width of the paper.
is particularly helpful if you have a stash of pre-cut strips like
Jelly Rolls or if you use Bonnie Hunter's method of organizing your
scraps by pre-cutting them into standard sizes.
The math is easy, too. There's no 'seven eighths' rule to remember. Just cut strips 1/2" wider than the finished unit measures.
Use a shorter, 1.2-1.5mm (18-20 stitches/inch). The extra stitching helps the HST stand up to the strain of pulling off the paper.
After stitching, press to set the seam.
Rotary cut on all the solid lines.
Pay attention to the thicker solid line between the pairs of HST. There's a fine white line down the center of it. That is your cutting line.
Finally, tear away the paper.
Give your HST a final press.
Like magic, the HST unit is the same width as the strip it was cut from.
That means you can cut your squares and rectangles from the same strips, saving fabric and time. Sweet!
Packs are available for finished HST sizes:1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2", 1-3/4", 2", 2-1/4", 2-1/2", 3", 3-1/2", 4", 4-1/2", 5", 5-1/2" and 6".
They also come in a Mini-Pack that is a combo pack that includes both 1/2" and 3/4" finished units
Below are some of the different sizes available directly from Amazon.com. If you're on the fence about this product, take a minute and read the customer reviews.
Much like Thangles, Triangles on a Roll™ let you easily choose smaller numbers of the same sized HST to make because you cut only as many as you need.
Cut out the desired number of units. Cut your two HST fabrics a bit larger than the paper. I generally add 1/2" to both dimensions.
Layer the two fabrics RST. Lay the Triangles on a Roll™printed side up on top. Pin the layers together, avoiding the dashed lines.
Because we're stitching through paper, use a smaller stitch length, 18-20 stitches per inch (1.2-1.5mm).
Sew slow enough that you stay on the line.
Press after all the lines are sewn to set the seams.
Rotary cut on all the solid lines.
Remove the paper and press again.
Triangles on a Roll™ are available in the following sizes: 1-1/4", 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3", 4", 4-1/2", 5" and 6" finished.
This product is printed on sheets of non-woven fusible interfacing. Packages include multiple sheets approximately 19-1/2" wide. The number of HST a package makes is printed on the front just underneath the finished size.
Like all other triangle papers, you cut off only what you need. While the lines appear faint in the picture, they ARE dark enough to see when you're sewing.
With a dry iron, position the bumpy side—that's the side with the fusible— on the backside of your fabric.
I have to admit I was a wee bit leery about the accuracy of the product—seriously it's ironed to the fabric—I assumed there'd be some distortion during the fusing process.
But I was wrong...
...and pleasantly surprised.
Simply follow the directions and press (not iron) the fusible to the fabric. You use a polyester setting. It works like a dream.
Because there's no paper to remove, you can use your regular sized needle and standard piecing stitch length.
Layer your fused fabric RST with the second half square triangle fabric.
Simply stitch on all the dotted lines.
In this example, I've pinned the layers together avoiding any of the stitching lines.
Sew only as fast as allows you to stitch directly on the line.
Use your rotary cutter and ruler to cut apart the HST on the solid lines.
The interfacing is light enough that its effect on the hand of your fabric is barely noticeable.
It does add a bit of stabilization to the cut edges.
This is particularly helpful if you're using a presser foot with a guide or flange on the right-hand side (you'll need an adjustable needle position to use this type of presser foot).