Sharp or ball, universal or metallic...sewing machine needles come in a wide range of point types and sizes for an even wider range of uses.
But what we quilters are really interested in is which one to choose for our next project.
No matter how much you paid for your sewing machine, the needle determines the quality of each stitch you make. It is the most critical part in the formation of a stitch.
The purpose of your sewing machine needle is to slide effortlessly through the quilt sandwich. It should not damage the fabric or create too big a hole. Finally, the needle should carry the sewing or quilting thread through to the stitch without damaging it.
The #1 tip is to buy plenty of sewing machine needles in a variety of sizes and types when they are on sale. Use the big box store coupons like you get from Joann's and Hancock's, and watch the sale fliers, too. There are many reasons to change a needle. Have a large and varied supply on hand so that you're more willing to change the needle when problems crop up.
Don't buy cheap, no-name-brands of needles. It just isn't worth the hassle. Schmetz is my needle of choice. Your sewing machine instruction manual will tell you what kind to use if you aren't sure.
Joann's, Hancock's, etc., don't usually carry the smaller needle sizes. I like to use a 60/8 or 70/10 Schmetz Microtex Sharp for silk and monofilament threads. Locally, your neighborhood quilt store or sewing machine dealer is the place to shop for these. If you don't see them, make sure the shop owner knows you're looking.
Keep Track of All Those Needles
Sometimes during a quilt project, you'll switch to a different thread and need to use a different needle. Use this handy trick to keep these "used but still good" needles separated from the brand spanking new ones still in the package.
Use a tomato pin cushion to store 'used but still good' needles
Take a good old tomato pin cushion. With a Sharpie pen, write in each section the size and type of the various sewing machine needles that you frequently use.
Time to change your needle? Remove the "used but still good" needle from your machine and insert it into its proper place in the pin cushion. When you remove a needle from the pin cushion to use in your sewing machine, put a decorative pin in its place. That way with just a look, you'll be able to tell which needle is in your machine.
Needle Anatomy
Parts of a Sewing Machine Needle
The scarf is on the backside just above the eye.
Shank
The top part of the needle. It is flat on back and rounded in front to help position it perfectly in the needle bar on your sewing machine. It is the thickest and heaviest part of the needle.
Shaft
The narrow long portion of the needle.
Groove
The groove is to guide and protect the needle thread down to the eye. The groove is on the front of your sewing machine needle. You can feel it with your fingernail.
Scarf
This is the flat part or indentation on the back side of your needle just above the eye that supports the hook as it picks up the sewing thread loop to form your stitch.
Eye
That's where the thread feeds through to form a stitch.
Point
Points are either sharp or ball or a combination of both. These should be matched to your thread and fabric choices.
Do You Know the Signs of a Needle Gone Bad?
There are visible signs when your sewing machine needle is damaged or bent. Change your needle immediately when you...
Notice that your stitches look "crooked" and not straight.
Hear a popping sound while you're quilting. That 'popping' is the sound of a dull needle.
Hit a pin. (Hey, we're not supposed to be sewing over pins anyway, right?) You have probably damaged the point and possibly bent the needle. While you won't always be able to see the damage to the needle with your naked eye, you will see the change in stitch quality.
Start a new project. It's just plain easy to remember...new project, new needle.
Have been piecing or quilting for 6 to 8 hours. A needle dulls with use.
And one last, but important, piece of needle know-how. Just because the needle is new from the package, doesn't mean it's perfect.