Sewing the Applique

Lesson 5 - Invisible Machine Applique Instructions

Our invisible machine applique instructions continue...

Invisible machine applique is just like chain piecing and machine quilting. We, quilters, try to stitch for as long as possible without stopping to tie off.

With a little creativity you can stitch our basket completely in just two passes. Our invisible machine applique instructions continue with...

Stitch the Basket Handle and Outside Edge

Use the labeled block for reference. SL (stitch length) and SW (stitch width) settings are shown in parentheses.

To create a straight stitch for traveling, set your machine to a zigzag stitch, reduce the SW to 0.

I find it's faster to change my machine settings this way. You may find it easier to alternate between a zigzag and a straight stitch setting. Test it on your machine.

Choose the Simplest Stitch Path

Let's begin stitching...

1. Start between A and B, straight stitch traveling (SL=1, SW=0) Stop at B. I cut my monofilament thread tail here, close to the top of the block to keep it from getting tangled in the stitches. In the picture, the needle is stopped at B.

2. Pivot at B. Zigzag the outer handle from B to C to D (SL=1, SW=1). Stop at D.

3. Pivot at D, straight stitch traveling (SL=1, SW=0) from D to E, pivot at E

4. Zigzag the inner side of the handle (SL=1, SW=1), from E to F to A, pivot at A

5. Zig zag, (SL=1, SW=1) from A to E to D to G to H to I to J and return to A.

6. Micro stitch (SL=.5, SW=0) just off the edge of the applique shape on the background fabric past A for a quarter inch.

7. Stop with the uptake arm in its highest position, lift your presser foot and remove your block from the sewing machine. ALWAYS remove anything from under your presser foot with the uptake arm in its highest position. That way your tension disks are disengaged and you won't harm your machine.

8. Turn block to the back side, give a slight tug on the bobbin thread to pull the "nub" of monofilament to the back and clip the bobbin thread leaving a short (less than 1/2") tail. This short tail helps prevent the stitches from loosening. Because your bobbin thread matches your background fabric, there will be no shadowing through to the front of the block.

Our invisible machine applique instructions continue with...

Stitching the Cutout Square

You'll want to put a few extra stitches into the corners for our reverse applique square. These stitches reinforce the corner where we've clipped.

1. Start at 1 just past a corner and zigzag (SL=1, SW=1). Start here since you'll want a bit of room for overlapping zigzag and micro stitches to tie off at the end.

2. Stitch to 2. Stop with your needle in the background fabric in the very corner.

3. Pivot and stitch, pivot and stitch, lifting your presser foot as needed so you can fan out several stitches going around the corner in the template. These extra stitches will hold the corner fabric securely where you've clipped.

4. Zigzag to the next corner and repeat Steps 2, 3, and 4, repeat for all corners.

5. Once you reach "1", zigzag past it for a few stitches, then...

6. Micro stitch (SL=.5, SW=0) just off the edge of the applique shape on the background fabric for another quarter inch

7. Stop with the uptake arm in its highest position and remove your block from the sewing machine.

8. Clip the monofilament thread tail close to the top of the block. Turn the block over, give a quick tug on the bobbin thread and clip the bobbin thread leaving about a 1/2" thread tail.

A few points to emphasize about this stitching...

Travel in the "ditch" with straight stitches (SL=1, SW=0) to get from place to place without stopping. (Just like you do in machine quilting.) In our basket block, it happened at the ends of both basket handles. These stitches are hidden because you stitch "thiscloseto" the applique template without stitching on it.

Zig zag stitching twice over the same area runs the risk of making a "shiny" spot in your stitching, so do try to minimize it.

Tying off with micro-stitching (SL=.5, SW=0) is a technique borrowed from machine quilting. These micro stitches hold nicely.

When applique quilts are quilted, typically every shape is quilted around for emphasis. This quilting will further hide the micro stitching.

These invisible machine applique instructions and techniques can be used with any applique pattern. Use them, enjoy them, and have fun fooling your friends!

Our final steps in our invisible machine applique instructions are to wash our applique quilt blocks and square them up.

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