From our Free Quilt Block Patterns Library
Skill Level: Confident Beginner
The Union Square quilt block is all about the points! Points in the Economy block that forms the center. Points on the Half Square Triangles and Flying Geese that form the borders.
To insure the best result possible for you, we're paperpiecing this little beauty.
There's another benefit with this technique. If you make oversized HST and FG and then trim them down, there's 12 units to trim BEFORE you assemble the Union Square. With paperpiecing, there's only 5—which saves time and provides accurate results.
Other names for this block include: An Effective Square, Four Crowns, Union and Union Block.
Now let's get started!
When instructed to press, first press the unit in the closed position to set the seam and then open the patch, pressing again.
I prefer my open toe applique foot for paperpiecing and use a stitch length of 15-18 stitches per inch.
When assembling the Union Square
block, I switch back to my standard quarter inch foot with a guide.
Quarter inch seam allowances (SA) are used to sew the units together.
To download any of our free paperpiecing patterns, YOU NEED Adobe installed on your computer. Get it here.
To print blocks at the correct size, under 'Page Sizing and
Handling' in the Adobe print menu, set 'Custom Scale' to 100%. Click here to see where it's at on that page.
Choose the finished size of your Union Square. Click the link below to print.
Cut out the patterns just beyond the dashed lines. There's no extra points for being neat—units are trimmed at the end.
My favorite paperpiecing papers are:
Except for #1, all patches are oversized which makes positioning them virtually foolproof. (Ripping out stitches isn't my idea of a good time!)
And finally, don't forget to subcut #2-7 (far right column—#4 is cut twice on the diagonal; the rest are cut once diagonally to form the necessary triangles for the sides units).
Make a couple of blocks. Then tweak the patch-sizes if it makes piecing easier FOR YOU.
Cutting Chart for a~ Paper Piecing ~
|Patch||Fabric||Qty||Finished Block Size||Sub|
|1||A||1||2” x 2”||2-1/2” x 2-1/2”||3-1/2” x 3-1/2”||none|
|2||B||2||2-3/8” x 2-3/8”||2.3/4” x 2-3/4”||3-1/2” x 3-1/2”|
|3||C||2||2-7/8” x 2-7/8”||3-3/8” x 3-3/8”||4-3/8” x 4-3/8”|
|4||B||1||3-1/8” x 3-1/8”||3-5/8” x 3-5/8”||4-5/8” x 4-5/8”|
|5, 7||A||8||2-1/8” x 2-1/8”||2-3/8” x 2-3/8”||2-7/8” x 2-7/8”|
|6||B||4||2-1/8” x 2-1/8”||2-3/8” x 2-3/8”||2-7/8” x 2-7/8”|
|8||B||4||1-3/4” x 1-3/4”||2” x 2”||2-1/2” x 2-1/2”||none|
|Unfinished Block Size||5”||6-1/2”||9-1/2”||na|
These are some of the supplies I use to prepare and cut my fabric patches.
For paper piecing, set your stitch length to 15-18 stitches per inch (1.5mm). Install an open toe applique foot if you have one.
Make 2 short, 2 long
The borders for our Union Square quilt block are exactly the same, except that two need a #8 patch.
Use a dab of your glue stick to adhere the wrong side of #4 to the unprinted side of all four of the border patterns.
With right sides together (RST), position a #5. Line-up the point of the triangle with the corner of the pattern (see arrow).
Stitch, both starting and stopping past the outside dashed line of the pattern.
Repeat for the second #5. (For the 4-1/2" block you may need to add one #5, pressing it out of the way, and then add the second one to each border unit.)
Now it's time to do a little trimming. You can see where the #5 patch extends more than 1/4" past the line between #5 and #6 on both sides.
You could trim the seam allowance down to 1/4" with a scissor by just eyeballing it. However, I prefer to trim with my rotary cutter for the accuracy.
To do so, put the edge of your ruler (arrow) right on the seamline between #5 and #6.
Crease the pattern with your fingernail along the ruler. Remove the ruler and fold the paper back. You will need to pull the paper away from some of the stitching to do this. (arrow)
If you accidentally make a big mess out of the pattern (I've done it, everyone does at some point!), use a piece of Scotch Brand Magic Tape to fix up the paper side. Just don't iron directly on the tape. It'll melt.
Position the 1/4" line of the ruler on the folded edge of the paper and trim with your rotary cutter.
When you unfold the pattern to it's original position, you'll be able to see that the seam allowance extends a 1/4" into the #6 space.
Use this technique every time you need to 'trim the seam allowance'.
Continue adding the #6, #7 and #8 patches (only on the longer border), trimming SAs and pressing after each is added.
The borders look something like this after the stitching is complete—pretty messy. Not to worry!
We'll just trim each Union Square border. With the pieced border paper-side up on your cutting mat, lay the 1/4" mark on the ruler on top of the solid black outline of the pattern. Trim with your rotary cutter.
Pointy, pieced perfection!
NOTE: For more detailed instructions to make this unit, click here and review Steps 3 and 4 for the Economy quilt block. (The link opens in a new window.)
With a dot of Elmer's Washable Glue Stick (goes on purple, dries clear), stick the back of a #1 to the unprinted side of the pattern. Use the placement guides for easy positioning.
With (RST) match the diagonal edge of a #2 to #1. It helps to align the point on #2 with the corner on the pattern (see arrow).
Stitch on the line between #1 and #2, starting before and ending after the outside dashed line. (see arrows).
Repeat for the opposite #2. Press both patches. (For the 4-1/2" block, you may need to press after the addition of each #2 to get it out of the way for the next one.)
Add the two remaining #2 patches in the same manner.
Trim the SA around the #2s to 1/4" using the same technique we used for the border units. You will need to pull the paper away from the stitching at the corners to fold it back.
Add the first #3, lining up the long diagonal with the trimmed edges of the #2s. The point of #3 lines up with the corner of #1 (see arrow)
Repeat for the opposite #3. Press.
Add the remaining #3s in the same manner.
Finally, trim off the excess fabric. Lay the 1/4" line of your ruler on the outside solid line and trim with your rotary cutter.
Trim away any stray threads from the back. The center unit for our Union Square looks like this. Everything is perfectly pointy here, too!
Install a standard quarter inch foot. Reset your stitch length for normal piecing.
At this point, you have a choice to make—to remove the paper or not. It's no trouble to stitch through all the layers of the paper, but it's much easier to pin without the paper. (I have removed it before assembling this sample block.)
Arrange all the pieces as shown below.
Stitch a short borders to both the left and right side of the center unit.
SA are pressed toward the center.
With RST, stitch the top and bottom borders to the middle row. Use pins to help match the SAs.
The sewing is complete on our Union Square quilt block. If you haven't removed the paper, now's the time to do it!
The only thing left is a good final press. Why not try our best pressing technique fort the flattest block you ever saw!