Skill Level: Confident Beginner
Blocks like the Brickwork quilt block look they'd be more trouble than they're worth to make with all those on-point squares and rectangles.
At least that's how I felt until I found the On-Point Ruler. I'm loving it. Simple to use. Reliable results. All you need is a good quarter inch seam.
Not a gadget-gal?
I've drafted templates for you to print from your home computer. No need to shoot the lock off your wallet (old Iowa saying if you haven't heard it before) for a block you haven't even made yet.
There's a Brickwork coloring page to download, too.
Cutting instructions for both the ruler and templates is included, followed by step-by-step instructions for stitching.
At the very bottom of the page are links to some of the tools I used during construction.
Let's get started!
Quarter inch seam allowances (SA) are pressed toward the darker fabric unless otherwise indicated.
Test your stitching accuracy by taking a Sewing Test before starting to fine-tune your 1/4" seam.
There are a lot of bias edges in this block. If you have trouble with them stretching, starch your quilt fabric before cutting to minimize the stretch. [Learn more here...]
Two options are offered for cutting your patches. The stitching is the same regardless of how you cut.
You'll notice a dark background fabric is used in the sample block. If you'd like to try your hand at your own coloration before cutting, click here to download the coloring page before you start.
The On-Point ruler is used for cutting patches #1-#4 (highlighted in yellow in the cutting chart below.) Your standard everyday ruler is used for #5-#6.
Don't forget to cut and subcut #5 and #6 with your regular rotary ruler.
|CUTTING CHART for a|
Brickwork Quilt Block
|Finished Block Size|
|1**||Background||1||1½" x 4½"||2” x 6”||2½" x 7½"||na|
|2**||Background||2||1½" x 1½"||2” x 2”||2½" x 2½"||na|
|3**||Medium||8||1½" x 1½"||2” x 2”||2½" x 2½"||na|
|4**||Light||4||1½" x 4½"||2” x 6”||2½" x 7½"||na|
|Unfinished Block Size||6½"||8½"||10½"||---|
**Remember to cut Patches 1-4 with ONLY the On-Point ruler, a regular ruler will not work.
If you don't have this specialty quilting ruler, don't want to purchase one, and STILL want to make the block, you can download templates to cut your patches with. Click the appropriate link below.
You must use the free Adobe program to print the templates, setting Custom Scale to 100% under the heading, Page Sizing and Handling, to insure they print at the correct size. Adobe is the one program that prints these templates reliably.
For stable block edges on the straight of grain, Patches 5 and 6 must be cut with the printed arrow parallel to the selvedge of your fabric.
With right sides together (RST), stitch #3 square to opposite sides of a #2 square. Repeat for a total of two units.
Arrange the patches to form the center of the block as shown below.
Stitch the units together to form the center patch.
Stitch a #6 triangle to opposite sides of four #3 patches.
It's easiest to feed these patches through the machine straight edge first as shown below.
After stitching, you'll notice that the #6 triangles are a bit longer than the square. This is correct.
Fold this unit in half and finger-press a crease to mark the center. Repeat this procedure for the long side of the #5 corner triangles.
With RST, match the creases of the sewn unit and #5. Pin to hold things in place.
This time your stitching line goes directly through the valley created by the patches (see red arrow).
Trim away the dog ears with scissors.
Repeat for a total of four and put them aside for a moment.
Press toward #4s.
Make a total of two.
Add these to the long side of two of the previously sewn corners.
To make the final units, add a #4 to each of the two remaining corner units as shown below.
Press SA towards the #4 rectangle.
It seems like lots of fiddly piecing, but we're ready to...
Arrange the sewn patches as shown below.
Stitch the units in the middle diagonal row together.
Press the SA toward the center nine-patch.
Now stitch the rows together. I do pin to help match the seam lines. Your seams will nest to make matching easier.
This is your finished Brickwork quilt block.
All that's left to do it trim off the dog ears on the outside edges.
I've left them for the end on purpose. If I found that the block wasn't stitching up the correct size, I'd be able to take apart the rows and re-stitch them. If I'd already cut away the dog ears, it'd be a devil of a time trying to re-stitch if I needed to take a smaller seam allowance.
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